Terramar

Sunday, October 07, 2007

Saturday I came, I saw, I went, IT was GOOD? ? ? !

Friday looked awful on the surfline Tamarack Cam ( just up the road from where I generally surf ). Saturdays cam 615am, showed a little better. At 430am Saturday I finished watching this Machado interview www.surfline.com/video/going_off/ video,
so I went EXPECTING CRAP up front. Maybe some victory at sea, which I enjoyed last winter at times. 0,o
7am Saturday I paddle out through sorta big NNW wind swell. A four or five tier,
( whitewater steps ) paddle out with a strong south parallel pull. My first semi winter like swell TEST. Waves were about shoulder/head ht. on the takeoff peaks, maybe 3-5 seconds apart on the sets and those in between. Warm water still.
After getting outside, I sat catching my breath, then turned on one, had a late great drop and an adrenaline pumping right. Because I thought it was gonna be crap so I let my wife a note saying I would be home by 830. Well stayed in til 10 am, had a few really great rides
I always have a good-great time "going", close to 200 times since Jan.
Glad I went......
As I write this on Sunday Am at 5 am Im goin again EXPECTING CRAP.

surf on

2 comments:

6ftnperfect said...

200 times? what were you doing out there on all those flat days????

Bill said...

Paddle paddle paddle 10'2"