Weekend update

Saturday

Nada, zero, zilch, nothing.
There at 6am, looked 40 min. for a sign of rideable waves, saw none and split.
A drag, as I was still buzzin' from Friday's rekindled stoke.

Sunday

Scarce, rare, lean, and far between.
There at 6am, saw a few, WarmWaters looked like something was happening, but I chose to surf alone and south.
Caught one pretty quick. It was good enough to bring a couple surfers CLOSER to me, bah.
However on my next ride I got covered ! !
I wasn't expecting that. First time I think.
Dropped in on a left that came slightly outside and was riding low in the wave. I thought, "I'm not gonna make the section", so I tucked and stuck it out.
Then just when I thought I had made the section, I felt the thin lip of the wave hitting my back and outside shoulder and could hear it as well. I noticed the curl of the wave just in front of my face and the steepness of the small shoulder past that.
Cool, very cool. It's a step forward for sure. There is so much I look forward to with surfing.

surf on......