Despite the fire situation, my son snuck out at 2-3 this afternoon.
He reports B A M ! ! !
Way, way outside fatso's , on the big board. Just what he needed after 3 weeks-o-nuthin.
He rated his session as one his of top ten surf's. Probably an 8
I got out for 1 hour about 5 pm caught 2 good waves ( not the waves of the day ) There were of course outrages Santa Ana offshores, smoke, and coughing on the paddle out .
I rate mine a 3.75
I want an additional 4.25 added to that. S o o n Please.
surf on.........
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