Terramar

Friday, October 26, 2007

Bingo, BINGO ! I got B I N G O ! ! ! !

This Pic is of my Son on the cliff @ TerraMar
This story is about him really and what he does for his very proud Dad.

Finally, I got some of what I needed, whew ! I have been in a surf funk.
Tonight my son kinda talked me into going after work, I was going to repeat recent history and blow it off and then the little light came on and shone through." Don't do that again Bill, remember how you felt when you blew him off last time ?"
We went to our break and the line up was clogged on the inside with grommets on the short stuff. My immediate inclination was to go north or south of the crowd (packed paddle paranoia), then the little light came on again and shone through "Let your son choose, he is not in the funk you are in. "
I paddled out directly into the crowd, following my Son.
I turned on the first wave immediately, stood, stood down would be hoppers(2), and cut back on the snake(1), turned again and stepped to the nose arched back and rode.......ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !

Got another 8-10 nice outsiders. Took "my" waves appropriately and came out cleansed and re-born from the funky monkey week of , well.... crap everything.
Thank you SON, you are my little light when things go dark, I did see it and follow it this time.

surf on.......

1 comment:

6ftnperfect said...

Rambo Surfer! Surf on...