Gnarly paddle

Today's paddle out was just what I needed....
kinda.
I am still uncomfortable ( scared ) with the thought of getting my
surgically DE enhanced body
"worked" over.
After about 15 minuets of paddling but not going anywhere, Jason, Dave, and I had a window and we made it out.


Once we recovered, I recall having the "perma grin" going for awhile. This was a result of "having made it stoke".
Occasional LARGE jacking then walled close outs would pass under me and this created an equal amount of "bigness" stoke.

I Love
the BIGness stoke !!

The waves were tough for us to get into, and delivered a beating for choosing the wrong ones.
I caught about 4 and was finally satisfied with the whole scene.
I could have done better a year ago,
but its not a year ago....
I did need a confidence shaker,
and a success, in exactly that order, and that's what I got.... friends and family, in the big surf with me, sun out, big waves, challenges met,
life is very, very, good.

surf on...,
I plan too !

Argh

Right now @ 6pm
I'm watching my ( sort-ta ) break pound a bunch a guys over and over on a live cam
(glassy bigger stuff)
I MISS GETTING POUNDED
I know that slightly south it may be real good, reeeeaaaaaal good.
Oh, chart says high tide and gettin higher, too high.
Soooooo oooooo oooooo oooooooo o I don't go.
C i r c u m s t a n c e s sucked it outta me.
Made me too late.
The tide
My battered, recovering body.
My brain says this and that.
I hate that...

tomorrow...
AARRRGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Wetsuit OFF ...........Trunks ON

I love to paddle without a wetsuit on.
That is plain and simple.
There is something about it that just turns me on.
Being in the full sunshine, water flowing and splashing on, around and over you. Being thrust through the water by a powerful force.
Nothing pulling on your shoulders, neck, or anything else as you paddle.

I love it.

My son and I had a really fun time in the water yesterday, despite the fact that we barely caught any "waves". There just wasn't much ride opportunity yesterday. We did get a few, but we had a lot of laughs and fun. Laurie came down to watch ( of course, there was nothing wave wise to see ).
Naturally there were 2 or 3 really GOOD surfers there,
Chuck ( rules the place) and Rick,( Erick )
professes his style to be that of a "drunk monkey".
Truly great surfers can and do find anything and
make it look easy.............someday will come, at least I will continue to work for that day for me.
So fortunately my wife had something to watch as far as surfing goes while her husband and son struggled for less than ride able ( for us ) waves.

It was a great day, a great day for all. Find something everyday and appreciate it. It works !
surf on...

My intent is to go, go, and do it in my trunks!

Its 2 pm, I'm all hot and bothered.
I'm not particularly proud of myself this day, so I'm goin' for a purification session.
I'm leavin' now, with my trunks ON.
Goodbye sweetheart, maybe I'll see ya again, maybe not.

Check this blog out, "The Closer Walk" . I love the "localism" you tube that got posted there!

The Closer Walk

I thought the little fellow would be able to easily make that wave. Honestly Sir. .

Swell, from the south as predicted .
I have a gut feeling that we will be a lot more southern this year, of course I have nothing to base this on other than feeling.
My friends were getting out of the water as I arrived tonight after work,
I was told to not go to the reef as it was tough enough to work them a bit too much. So, for me, in my state of recovery, this would be too much. I agreed so I opted be "safe" and stay closer to Warms than Igor's.
That lasted about 45 minuets. I crept towards the reef, it was indeed thumping and looking like "swarmies" with 4-6 people per peak making the drops. I have become very patient as a result of my injuries and will wait. The secret to that is I am almost perma stoked every time I'm in the water. I LOVE that ! !
My BIG ONE came right to me and I worked IT ! I am soooooo faaaaar from being consistent, but I pumped and danced my 10'3' board up and down, from bottom to top, then, THEN......
made an almost perfect "roundhouse" and rode it into 6" of water and stepped off.
I LOVE THIS............. I am so thankful that I can surf after what happened.
I am so thankful for these days !

surf on...

Swell Wally, and I think it;s a Southy

God, what a beautiful morning in the sea, despite the religous snickerings

Today was warm, clear, glassy with some wave action. The low early AM tide had things drained out a bit but..... I got a few solitaire rides

How beautifully gorgeous can a day get ??
I was with a few friends, but we were not in the best wave spot...should have been further north towards
warm water jetty.
I find religious "tensions" sort of amusing.
Many people are not comfortable with talking to others concerning each others beliefs. I, for one, am fine with the notion that many believe different things and I don't mind outward celebration of these different beliefs. I think it's good as long as we don't fight over it.
HAPPY EASTER y'all, it's a good thing ! !

Tuesday, glad friends and waves showed up. needed a little redemption session, thanks!

Tuesday, I brought the board to work knowing the storm was coming and a swell was supposed to be there. Did a surf check on the way to a meeting
( endless meetings ) at work, and it was blown out and crap at a low tide 230pm.
Decided to go back anyways after meeting
( endless meetings) and still looked pretty bad.. but my mates were there and I promised so...
turned out to pick up, glass off and the disaster kid got some nice long rides up front on faces, and confidence back as well. Some needed compliments were doled out, and voila,
I'm feeling the stoke.
For some damn reason
( no one was over there for a change)
I paddled solo to the "reef" and caught a few nice ones in solitude. Thanked mother O and ALL and pulled out @ 745 pm as the storm came in.
surf on...

Sunday ..Glad my good friends were there!

Saturdays decent , although very short lived swell was good
Sunday was good cause my mates were there, son Jason ( sick though ), Pat and David.
The waves were crap and I surfed poorly enough to cause me to reflect on my abilities in a bad way.
I wonder if I will get where I want to be skill wise?
I felt robbed of my surfing progression by my 1 year set back due to a botched surgery and extraordinary bad luck.( see endless accounts of past posts)_


Hurt my self a bit,in this junk.

bah

Are there Sharks out there, or what............?

This is what I wanted to know, as I stood on the cliff,
looking out at lines of shoulder++'s rolling' in,
one after the other.
0700 4' high tide and dropping, clear, glassy, some offshore wind,
and almost everyone was standing on the cliff watching, un-suited up, except I.
They were saying it was too messed up and the paddle out wouldn't be good.
Very close together, hard to get into, then closed out walls, is what I ended up seeing.
I was told I "had to go now"by a Cop I know who surfs there( he's cool )
because I was already suited up, blah blah.blah. I said "oh hell yeah, I'm going", and went down to the beach. There, my head got the better of me. I stretched, and stretched, looking for someone to paddle out with.
Saw my buddy Pat up on the cliff.
We ended up paddling out together in a spot he took me to, and educated me on.
Made it out, a bit tired.
Only 10 people from Warms to the reefers.
Sweet, and on a Saturday morning....go freaking figure.
Although things were calming down there were big, steep, fatties that kept rolling thru.
Enough size, and now great conditions, that put a perma grin on me.
VERY STOKED about the paddle out and wave size.
LONG STORY SHORT......Pat got several.
That's Pat BELOW

I got THE only one I tried for, and took it in...................................................................................
It was big, fat, glassy, fast,and clear with shoulder.
I did it right and took it home.
Things are VERY GOOD
I AM STOKED.

surf on...........