Right now @ 6pm
I'm watching my ( sort-ta ) break pound a bunch a guys over and over on a live cam
(glassy bigger stuff)
I MISS GETTING POUNDED
I know that slightly south it may be real good, reeeeaaaaaal good.
Oh, chart says high tide and gettin higher, too high.
Soooooo oooooo oooooo oooooooo o I don't go.
C i r c u m s t a n c e s sucked it outta me.
Made me too late.
The tide
My battered, recovering body.
My brain says this and that.
I hate that...
tomorrow...
AARRRGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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2 comments:
Our bodies age, but our minds are always 25 and ready to charge. That divergence causes so much angst. I hope you can get some tomorrow.
go easy on yourself, you'll get there
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