Today's paddle out was just what I needed....
kinda.
I am still uncomfortable ( scared ) with the thought of getting my
surgically DE enhanced body
"worked" over.
After about 15 minuets of paddling but not going anywhere, Jason, Dave, and I had a window and we made it out.
Once we recovered, I recall having the "perma grin" going for awhile. This was a result of "having made it stoke".
Occasional LARGE jacking then walled close outs would pass under me and this created an equal amount of "bigness" stoke.
I Love
the BIGness stoke !!
The waves were tough for us to get into, and delivered a beating for choosing the wrong ones.
I caught about 4 and was finally satisfied with the whole scene.
I could have done better a year ago,
but its not a year ago....
I did need a confidence shaker,
and a success, in exactly that order, and that's what I got.... friends and family, in the big surf with me, sun out, big waves, challenges met,
life is very, very, good.
surf on...,
I plan too !
3 comments:
I look at pictures like this and am reminded what a joke surfing in LA is.
I'm glad you made it out back and had a good time. :)
You`re big on the "just being there"stoke too. Keep it up and thanks for sharing.
Great post because you bring up a perfectly valid observation. Confidence is like a muscle. You have to work it...even fatigue it a bit to get it to grow. Challenging yourself in conditions that make you wary is a great route to personal growth...in many things. Even surfing.
David
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