I thought the little fellow would be able to easily make that wave. Honestly Sir. .

Swell, from the south as predicted .
I have a gut feeling that we will be a lot more southern this year, of course I have nothing to base this on other than feeling.
My friends were getting out of the water as I arrived tonight after work,
I was told to not go to the reef as it was tough enough to work them a bit too much. So, for me, in my state of recovery, this would be too much. I agreed so I opted be "safe" and stay closer to Warms than Igor's.
That lasted about 45 minuets. I crept towards the reef, it was indeed thumping and looking like "swarmies" with 4-6 people per peak making the drops. I have become very patient as a result of my injuries and will wait. The secret to that is I am almost perma stoked every time I'm in the water. I LOVE that ! !
My BIG ONE came right to me and I worked IT ! I am soooooo faaaaar from being consistent, but I pumped and danced my 10'3' board up and down, from bottom to top, then, THEN......
made an almost perfect "roundhouse" and rode it into 6" of water and stepped off.
I LOVE THIS............. I am so thankful that I can surf after what happened.
I am so thankful for these days !

surf on...