A BIG South on Tuesday Night....perfect.
Got home after a San Digey meeting for work and the $2.00 Del Mar day traffic cost me about , well, 1 hour in traffic delays.
Looked at the Tam Cam and saw the big south lines. Hmmmm ..... hit it.
In @ 6pm and proceded to get shoulder high rides . To the south the reef was booming again, it really hasn't stopped for week ++.
I got mine and some fine rides there were.
My body is still healing, it has been 1 1/2 years now ! !
Have a ways to go.
Got complimented from strangers on some rides...WOW !
I am getting closer to good as far as recovery goes.
Stoked...YEAH IM STOKED
Who woulda thought......I didnt really , thank God for family and friends.
surf on....
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1 comment:
I am missing that. Out here in the inconsistency of the Long Island beach break. I am missing that mightily. Indeed, take advantage.
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