SCHOOLED
Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there.
Got to know a long time T Mar local and got a wave or 2. After Paul SR. split, there came 2 GREAT surfers whom I love to watch.
Along with them, came some swell as the tide changed.
These two would catch every bump or roller that came through, and rode em well and were very stoked on the weather, conditions and vibe. I was super stoked on the conditions and the dolphin pods around us. I got a couple, and then I started a real fun thing.
I started to F* up everything I did.
It was funny actually.
I got owned, and I am the one who ownethed myself.
Then Chuck came out and I proceeded to miss virtually every wave I went for.
As I was getting out I thought "aaahhhhh it's lunch recess at last."
No worries.
I get that sorta thing, it is actually what keeps me so stoked, in a way.
Sheesh, just yesterday I was.........
surf on ...
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !
The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired.
Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out
We are floatingbetween Paul and the beach, as he is getting tubed, beautifully tubed.
Paul is in the photo below.. NOT"the tube" but Paul, none the less.
As Chuck and I watch him come out of the green room he raises his hands in a victory "touchdown" kinda thing.
I was stoked just watching him in that pipe so close up, from the inside.
As I paddled by him I was kidding and said, "Oh I thought you were on your SUP"
He just smiled and said ,"Nah, this day is all about the Tube Fest"
Well.... he was right
and the time was finally right for little old me !
I caught a few nice outside to inside speeders and watched others gettin' covered and then coming out. There was some great surfing goin on this morning.
** THEN I got an outside right, stayed with it to the inside, started speeding up then squatted down and dug my hand into the face...
next thing I know, all I can see is white water, and I am in and covered up, but still flyin down the face. After a few seconds I came out, could see the shoulder again, stood and flipped over the back side of the wave. S T O K E D ! !
Chuck saw it, AND a woman happened to be taking pictures
of the only guy out there in TRUNKS (yours truly of course), so I may get a shot of that.
Anyways, it's etched in my head and heart forever.
1st good cover up ! !
hell yeah
surf on...
Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out
We are floatingbetween Paul and the beach, as he is getting tubed, beautifully tubed.
Paul is in the photo below.. NOT"the tube" but Paul, none the less.
As Chuck and I watch him come out of the green room he raises his hands in a victory "touchdown" kinda thing.
I was stoked just watching him in that pipe so close up, from the inside.
As I paddled by him I was kidding and said, "Oh I thought you were on your SUP"
He just smiled and said ,"Nah, this day is all about the Tube Fest"
Well.... he was right
and the time was finally right for little old me !
I caught a few nice outside to inside speeders and watched others gettin' covered and then coming out. There was some great surfing goin on this morning.
** THEN I got an outside right, stayed with it to the inside, started speeding up then squatted down and dug my hand into the face...
next thing I know, all I can see is white water, and I am in and covered up, but still flyin down the face. After a few seconds I came out, could see the shoulder again, stood and flipped over the back side of the wave. S T O K E D ! !
Chuck saw it, AND a woman happened to be taking pictures
of the only guy out there in TRUNKS (yours truly of course), so I may get a shot of that.
Anyways, it's etched in my head and heart forever.
1st good cover up ! !
hell yeah
surf on...
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Friday night , Saturday Morning, and Life
Friday night and Saturday Morning were good.
PM surfing was with my son.
It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son.
JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+NATURE+EXERCISE=G O O D
Surfing with Jason is an integral part of the whole scene for me, although that has been changing, as all things must, I suppose? We surf together less and less. I dot think that will be the case for very long and I look forward to retirement and surfing often with him and his family if I am so fortunate and blessed.
These last 2 years have had a lot of changes for me and my family.
Yes, there were some good changes.
Most notably were the strengthening of my relationship with the love of my life, Laurie.
Also the addition of "friends" into my life.
Plus the building relationship with GOD and nature.
There were other ones that weren't so good, but I fight them physically and mentally everyday. Family, friends, God, and mother ocean will get me through the bad ones.
Saturday AM was good. Got out with my friends Dave and Pat although the waves were hard to get into I seem to be surfing well and better than before.
We had fun as usual.
PM surfing was with my son.
It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son.
JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+NATURE+EXERCISE=G O O D
Surfing with Jason is an integral part of the whole scene for me, although that has been changing, as all things must, I suppose? We surf together less and less. I dot think that will be the case for very long and I look forward to retirement and surfing often with him and his family if I am so fortunate and blessed.
These last 2 years have had a lot of changes for me and my family.
Yes, there were some good changes.
Most notably were the strengthening of my relationship with the love of my life, Laurie.
Also the addition of "friends" into my life.
Plus the building relationship with GOD and nature.
There were other ones that weren't so good, but I fight them physically and mentally everyday. Family, friends, God, and mother ocean will get me through the bad ones.
Saturday AM was good. Got out with my friends Dave and Pat although the waves were hard to get into I seem to be surfing well and better than before.
We had fun as usual.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Wed Pm was nice stuff.....
High tailed it from work to home.
Home to break. 5pm
Wife.
Friends.
Waves,waist to shoulder stuff.
Trunks.
Many waves , rights and lefts.
Good rides were had by all.
I had many more waves than a typical session..... AGAIN !.
Sunset
Green Flash
Dinner
Repeat...... if lucky
surf on....
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Saturday PM very surprising and prolific
Saturday PM was very surprising and prolific.
Did not do a dawn patrol as the high tide scene was in effect.
Worked around the house trying
to earn a "get out in the water" pass
to go afternoon surfing at the tide pull out.
Well...
this worked out fine ! ! !
My better half, Laurie, went with me, brought a chair and sat and watched me surf long enough to actually see me get 5-8 waves.
This only took about 15 minuets.
I would get many, many more this VERY FOGGY afternoon.
NO ONE WAS THERE.... well let me clarify this to crystal,
there were 3 other people, spread out with 20 yards between us
and a proliferation of super glassy, frequent, shoulder high waves coming through.
TRUNKS
I had no rest time between long lefts and rights.
It was simply AMAZING.
Laurie then went for a walk while I spent myself surfing in virtual solitude.
I mean solitude.
I mean spent myself.
The fog-mist was so thick, I think no one figured it would be good.
Maybe they couldn't see anything on the cameras,
or... maybe it was just my turn.
Oh Yeah, I stood feet together,on the nose,diving board style,
at the top 3/4's of a shoulder high wave and
just rode it....
rode it long and good.
I am proud and humbled at once.
I am now surfing better than before the --------------------------->
nightmarish surgical, near death, sooo set-back, bullshit #*$^@ crap ! !
Haaaa
Thank you God.
Thank you all that helped me and are still helping me get through this !
surf on
Did not do a dawn patrol as the high tide scene was in effect.
Worked around the house trying
to earn a "get out in the water" pass
to go afternoon surfing at the tide pull out.
Well...
this worked out fine ! ! !
My better half, Laurie, went with me, brought a chair and sat and watched me surf long enough to actually see me get 5-8 waves.
This only took about 15 minuets.
I would get many, many more this VERY FOGGY afternoon.
NO ONE WAS THERE.... well let me clarify this to crystal,
there were 3 other people, spread out with 20 yards between us
and a proliferation of super glassy, frequent, shoulder high waves coming through.
TRUNKS
I had no rest time between long lefts and rights.
It was simply AMAZING.
Laurie then went for a walk while I spent myself surfing in virtual solitude.
I mean solitude.
I mean spent myself.
The fog-mist was so thick, I think no one figured it would be good.
Maybe they couldn't see anything on the cameras,
or... maybe it was just my turn.
Oh Yeah, I stood feet together,on the nose,diving board style,
at the top 3/4's of a shoulder high wave and
just rode it....
rode it long and good.
I am proud and humbled at once.
I am now surfing better than before the --------------------------->
nightmarish surgical, near death, sooo set-back, bullshit #*$^@ crap ! !
Haaaa
Thank you God.
Thank you all that helped me and are still helping me get through this !
surf on
Friday Pm ..............not as LARGE
but I had a good time.
1) My son JASON was with me in the water.
2) Other friends were there as well.
3) THE WEATHER AND SURFACE CONDITIONS were perfect.
4) T R U N K S
5) I caught several pretty good rides on both boards. This was the first time I have been on the small single for quite awhile and that was nice.
6) I actually out surfed most the crowd :)
1) My son JASON was with me in the water.
2) Other friends were there as well.
3) THE WEATHER AND SURFACE CONDITIONS were perfect.
4) T R U N K S
5) I caught several pretty good rides on both boards. This was the first time I have been on the small single for quite awhile and that was nice.
6) I actually out surfed most the crowd :)
Friday, October 16, 2009
THURSDAY PM WAS.....L A R G E
Got out after work and in about 4:30 or 5 pm.
Decided to go with the big board as I was not confident about my abilities to paddle out so well yet.
TRUNKS as it was still warm and I didn't need the restraint of anything on my shoulders ...
With the tide coming in fast and high I had to wait a bit in the soup, then made it out with only a few "dive for life's" on the way.
I sat waaaaay the hell outside,
with BIG ROLLING SWELLS passing under myself,
Pat, David and Kyle.
Those big fat swells slap a permagrin on me like nothing else really.
It's wild.
I let 2 waves go that I should have gone for.
one cuz someone else next to me was going for it
( I don't wanna eat anything other than dinner tonight )
and missed the other just shooting the shit with a friend.
( There are always more, right ? ),
After some time. the next "Bill" wave came through about a minuet after I was pondering all the obstacles there would be on the inside, if I did get a fast big one.
Oh well...... From far, far outside
I went, dropped far, stood, rode up and down the face, moving fast through the short boarders strewn the length of the wave....
I was laughing out loud the whole way,
had a great ride into 2 inches of water,
stepped off, and called it a night.
BINGO ! !
hope you all got some too
surf on
Decided to go with the big board as I was not confident about my abilities to paddle out so well yet.
TRUNKS as it was still warm and I didn't need the restraint of anything on my shoulders ...
With the tide coming in fast and high I had to wait a bit in the soup, then made it out with only a few "dive for life's" on the way.
I sat waaaaay the hell outside,
with BIG ROLLING SWELLS passing under myself,
Pat, David and Kyle.
Those big fat swells slap a permagrin on me like nothing else really.
It's wild.
I let 2 waves go that I should have gone for.
one cuz someone else next to me was going for it
( I don't wanna eat anything other than dinner tonight )
and missed the other just shooting the shit with a friend.
( There are always more, right ? ),
After some time. the next "Bill" wave came through about a minuet after I was pondering all the obstacles there would be on the inside, if I did get a fast big one.
Oh well...... From far, far outside
I went, dropped far, stood, rode up and down the face, moving fast through the short boarders strewn the length of the wave....
I was laughing out loud the whole way,
had a great ride into 2 inches of water,
stepped off, and called it a night.
BINGO ! !
hope you all got some too
surf on
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES
Going front side, doin mean rail grabs to get out of the late take offs.
Going back side, doin mean pig dogs to get thru and around the white water and onto the steep shoulders.
Dropping down the peak, cutting deep bottom turns and slowly standing on the way down the line.
I am hoping the forecasters are right, that the shape is there, and that my arms and body are strong enough now, just to get the opportunity.
I used to go out without too much concern,
pre surgical crap------>
Now thing are a little different for me, but I won't ever give up
getting back to square 1.
we'll see
surf on...
Going back side, doin mean pig dogs to get thru and around the white water and onto the steep shoulders.
Dropping down the peak, cutting deep bottom turns and slowly standing on the way down the line.
I am hoping the forecasters are right, that the shape is there, and that my arms and body are strong enough now, just to get the opportunity.
I used to go out without too much concern,
pre surgical crap------>
Now thing are a little different for me, but I won't ever give up
getting back to square 1.
we'll see
surf on...
Thursday, October 08, 2009
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
Wednesday PM
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
That's how it still is.
I don't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
For another 5-8 years ( God willing I'll retire to a less stressful scene ) I hope that's how it will be. I won't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
It's like playing hooky, its like a big washing machine for my brain, 5 minuets in and it's like all the troubles of the day are GONE, POOF, VANISHED, nuthin left but water, sun, waves, flying,
yep ......
Last night got calls that there were some waves at super low tide around 5 pm. I figure the in push will offer some up. It Did !
David says Pat says, so Dave is hoping for a repeat of the night before when were all in the water until 715 pm and its dark.
Kyle was there.
Wasn't quite so good but....we got some
yep ......
surf on
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
That's how it still is.
I don't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
For another 5-8 years ( God willing I'll retire to a less stressful scene ) I hope that's how it will be. I won't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
It's like playing hooky, its like a big washing machine for my brain, 5 minuets in and it's like all the troubles of the day are GONE, POOF, VANISHED, nuthin left but water, sun, waves, flying,
yep ......
Last night got calls that there were some waves at super low tide around 5 pm. I figure the in push will offer some up. It Did !
David says Pat says, so Dave is hoping for a repeat of the night before when were all in the water until 715 pm and its dark.
Kyle was there.
Wasn't quite so good but....we got some
yep ......
surf on
Tuesday, October 06, 2009
Frequent sets of 5-8 or more waves........................HHJJ
WoW, the first taste of winter like swell, cept for the warmness
When is the last time we had that?
I cant remember.
Beautiful sunset, water temp and conditions.
There have been some BIG nice days this year, but this is the first I have been in a consistent wave scenario in awhile.
David,Pat and I really had a good time tonight. Lotsa waves, with some punch and shoulder on some of 'em. Very few people in the water. We even saw "The Green Flash", big, bright and just as sure as I type this blog, astounding.
Surfed into the dark.
This was just one of those GREAT after work sessions.
one for the books
Happy happy joy joy,
LoL
surf on.......................
When is the last time we had that?
I cant remember.
Beautiful sunset, water temp and conditions.
There have been some BIG nice days this year, but this is the first I have been in a consistent wave scenario in awhile.
David,Pat and I really had a good time tonight. Lotsa waves, with some punch and shoulder on some of 'em. Very few people in the water. We even saw "The Green Flash", big, bright and just as sure as I type this blog, astounding.
Surfed into the dark.
This was just one of those GREAT after work sessions.
one for the books
Happy happy joy joy,
LoL
surf on.......................
Sunday, October 04, 2009
Whether Report (knot sew) Suite
Was hoping for the AM glass(not predicted)and the predicted swell, but no. White caps,wind, and victory at sea conditions starting up.
Sometimes yeah, but not this AM.
surf on
Saturday, October 03, 2009
Im all about the Happy Happy Joy Joy.......... so if ya dont like it, suck it.................. LoL
I could NOT RESIST my own commentary on the state of being in the water.
Dawn patrol looked bad so I went home ehhhh
I figured the tide pull out/approaching swell combination would be good around 12 noon if the wind stayed off. Ooohhhh I got one right for a change.
Friends waved me to the reef but it didn't look too good yet ....but a beautiful day for sure. Then it turned on and Kyle, Pat, David, and I had the place to ourselves for about 40 minuets. Got some good stuff. It was nice to be out in the bright sun and warm water, midday. I practically never do that with Dawn Patrol and after work sunset surfs.
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