SCHOOLED
Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there.
Got to know a long time T Mar local and got a wave or 2. After Paul SR. split, there came 2 GREAT surfers whom I love to watch.
Along with them, came some swell as the tide changed.
These two would catch every bump or roller that came through, and rode em well and were very stoked on the weather, conditions and vibe. I was super stoked on the conditions and the dolphin pods around us. I got a couple, and then I started a real fun thing.
I started to F* up everything I did.
It was funny actually.
I got owned, and I am the one who ownethed myself.
Then Chuck came out and I proceeded to miss virtually every wave I went for.
As I was getting out I thought "aaahhhhh it's lunch recess at last."
No worries.
I get that sorta thing, it is actually what keeps me so stoked, in a way.
Sheesh, just yesterday I was.........
surf on ...
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