Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Beautiful, tropic Monday PM and I get......
SCHOOLED
Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there.
Got to know a long time T Mar local and got a wave or 2. After Paul SR. split, there came 2 GREAT surfers whom I love to watch.
Along with them, came some swell as the tide changed.
These two would catch every bump or roller that came through, and rode em well and were very stoked on the weather, conditions and vibe. I was super stoked on the conditions and the dolphin pods around us. I got a couple, and then I started
a real fun thing
.
I started to F* up everything I did.
It was funny actually.
I got owned, and I am the one who
ownethed
myself.
Then Chuck came out and I proceeded to miss virtually every wave I went for.
As I was getting out I thought "
aaahhhhh
it's lunch recess at last."
No worries.
I get that sorta thing, it is actually what keeps me so stoked, in a way.
Sheesh
, just yesterday I was.........
surf on ...
No comments:
Post a Comment
Newer Post
Older Post
Home
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
View my complete profile
Blog Archive
►
2022
(3)
►
February
(1)
►
January
(2)
►
2021
(1)
►
April
(1)
►
2014
(5)
►
April
(1)
►
March
(1)
►
January
(3)
►
2013
(38)
►
December
(2)
►
September
(4)
►
August
(1)
►
July
(3)
►
June
(3)
►
May
(3)
►
April
(5)
►
March
(8)
►
February
(5)
►
January
(4)
►
2012
(22)
►
September
(1)
►
August
(2)
►
July
(3)
►
June
(7)
►
May
(1)
►
April
(3)
►
March
(2)
►
February
(2)
►
January
(1)
►
2011
(28)
►
December
(1)
►
November
(3)
►
October
(2)
►
August
(1)
►
June
(1)
►
May
(3)
►
April
(6)
►
March
(6)
►
February
(1)
►
January
(4)
►
2010
(46)
►
December
(3)
►
November
(4)
►
October
(4)
►
September
(4)
►
August
(4)
►
July
(7)
►
June
(1)
►
May
(2)
►
April
(1)
►
March
(4)
►
February
(7)
►
January
(5)
▼
2009
(82)
►
December
(3)
►
November
(3)
▼
October
(12)
Beautiful, tropic Monday PM and I get......
Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !
Friday night , Saturday Morning, and Life
Wed Pm was nice stuff.....
Saturday PM very surprising and prolific
Friday Pm ..............not as LARGE
THURSDAY PM WAS.....L A R G E
Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
Frequent sets of 5-8 or more waves...................
Whether Report (knot sew) Suite
Im all about the Happy Happy Joy Joy.......... so ...
►
September
(6)
►
August
(14)
►
July
(9)
►
June
(5)
►
May
(6)
►
April
(11)
►
March
(9)
►
February
(1)
►
January
(3)
►
2008
(21)
►
December
(2)
►
November
(3)
►
October
(4)
►
September
(3)
►
August
(2)
►
July
(1)
►
April
(2)
►
February
(1)
►
January
(3)
►
2007
(50)
►
December
(9)
►
November
(10)
►
October
(7)
►
July
(1)
►
June
(4)
►
May
(8)
►
April
(4)
►
March
(6)
►
January
(1)
►
2006
(6)
►
December
(1)
►
November
(3)
►
October
(2)
Other Surf Blogs you might Like
Longboard Retro Days
SolSpot Forecast by Adam Wright
surf the blogs
Beercan Beach
Longboard retro days
PARAFINA
One Man Crowd
Feedjit
Feedjit Live Blog Stats
Total Pageviews
No comments:
Post a Comment