Terramar

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Saturday PM very surprising and prolific

Saturday PM was very surprising and prolific.

Did not do a dawn patrol as the high tide scene was in effect.
Worked around the house trying
to earn a "get out in the water" pass
to go afternoon surfing at the tide pull out.
Well...
this worked out fine ! ! !
My better half, Laurie, went with me, brought a chair and sat and watched me surf long enough to actually see me get 5-8 waves.
This only took about 15 minuets.
I would get many, many more this VERY FOGGY afternoon.
NO ONE WAS THERE.... well let me clarify this to crystal,
there were 3 other people, spread out with 20 yards between us
and a proliferation of super glassy, frequent, shoulder high waves coming through.
TRUNKS
I had no rest time between long lefts and rights.
It was simply AMAZING.
Laurie then went for a walk while I spent myself surfing in virtual solitude.
I mean solitude.
I mean spent myself.
The fog-mist was so thick, I think no one figured it would be good.
Maybe they couldn't see anything on the cameras,
or... maybe it was just my turn.
Oh Yeah, I stood feet together,on the nose,diving board style,
at the top 3/4's of a shoulder high wave and
just rode it....
rode it long and good.
I am proud and humbled at once.
I am now surfing better than before the --------------------------->
nightmarish surgical, near death, sooo set-back, bullshit #*$^@ crap ! !
Haaaa
Thank you God.
Thank you all that helped me and are still helping me get through this !
surf on

1 comment:

rspeer said...

great spirit Bill, and the sense of gratitude for all the blessings most of us take for granted. "Surf on"