Got out after work and in about 4:30 or 5 pm.
Decided to go with the big board as I was not confident about my abilities to paddle out so well yet.
TRUNKS as it was still warm and I didn't need the restraint of anything on my shoulders ...
With the tide coming in fast and high I had to wait a bit in the soup, then made it out with only a few "dive for life's" on the way.
I sat waaaaay the hell outside,
with BIG ROLLING SWELLS passing under myself,
Pat, David and Kyle.
Those big fat swells slap a permagrin on me like nothing else really.
It's wild.
I let 2 waves go that I should have gone for.
one cuz someone else next to me was going for it
( I don't wanna eat anything other than dinner tonight )
and missed the other just shooting the shit with a friend.
( There are always more, right ? ),
After some time. the next "Bill" wave came through about a minuet after I was pondering all the obstacles there would be on the inside, if I did get a fast big one.
Oh well...... From far, far outside
I went, dropped far, stood, rode up and down the face, moving fast through the short boarders strewn the length of the wave....
I was laughing out loud the whole way,
had a great ride into 2 inches of water,
stepped off, and called it a night.
BINGO ! !
hope you all got some too
surf on
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