Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Saturday, October 03, 2009
Im all about the Happy Happy Joy Joy.......... so if ya dont like it, suck it.................. LoL
I could NOT RESIST my own commentary on the state of being in the water.
Dawn patrol looked bad so I went home ehhhh
I figured the tide pull out/approaching swell combination would be good around 12 noon if the wind stayed off. Ooohhhh I got one right for a change.
Friends waved me to the reef but it didn't look too good yet ....but a beautiful day for sure. Then it turned on and Kyle, Pat, David, and I had the place to ourselves for about 40 minuets. Got some good stuff. It was nice to be out in the bright sun and warm water, midday. I practically never do that with Dawn Patrol and after work sunset surfs.
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About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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Beautiful, tropic Monday PM and I get......
Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !
Friday night , Saturday Morning, and Life
Wed Pm was nice stuff.....
Saturday PM very surprising and prolific
Friday Pm ..............not as LARGE
THURSDAY PM WAS.....L A R G E
Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
Frequent sets of 5-8 or more waves...................
Whether Report (knot sew) Suite
Im all about the Happy Happy Joy Joy.......... so ...
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