Happy New Year......c'ya 09

Old business

12/20/09-Sunday Surfing with my son. He is off from school and work.I see him get some good ones.
It's been so long since we've spent much time together, in the water or out.
I tell myself this is the natural order of things,but I don't like it.
It is good to be surfing with my son again.

12/25/07-Friday-Christmas- Jesus Christ' birthday
and an observed Holiday from Surfing for myself.

12/26/09-Saturday Hyped WNW swell not in yet, at least not for our dawn patrol.
Jason, his friend Todd,and I are virtually skunked in 38 degree air and 53 degree water. Everywhere we go, waves are not.

12/27/09-Sunday The Hyped WNW swell is on, but the walls are nasty closeouts,
Jason,Dave and I, and many others watch from the cliffs

and psych out !

I get a bad feeling from this. I hate psych outs, although I do rely heavily on intuition. This one pissed me a little. Ah well that's the way she goes.

12/28/09-Monday psych out redemption. After work I hustle to get out and into the line up by 4pm.
I want some big stuff, and big stuff there was that night. A lot of in and outs for myself. Nice big close outs but it's good to feel power underneath you. Stay up high, go for a little ride, then out over the back before the wall comes down.
Took some crap from a good surfer, but he's such a loud little shit though.
He can't shut up and can't help it really.
Oh well, I backed him off as much as I should have, I suppose. I mean I am 53 and he's all of 15 or something. He's gonna be a great surfer one day.
Oh yeah.... !
That evening Dave and I were waiting for some waves with shoulders when 10 yards further out, a single 10foot rogue wave plows through. Dave is about 5 yards better than I and he somehow punches through the top 3/4 of this thing...
I, on the other hand, do NOT.
I am smacked hard off the board as I try to get over it.
I am driven down as my board is being picked up and taken over the falls.
I cannot tell up from down and the the board yanks me towards the beach maybe 7-10 yards.
I figure it out ,and come up for air.
WOW, that was a doozie.
I have taken some good ones, but this one really had some juice on it ! !
It's funny, but that is exactly what I needed.
You know what I mean?
Dave and I finally got a wave with some shoulder to it and rode it in.
It was a good night for us both.
That was the finish of 09