Mondays paddle out was amazing. The tide was at about 3 feet and coming up fast mixed in with some big boy waves. The amount of water in front of strong deep swell causes the waves to jack up a lot here at Terramar. Add in the strong off shores and you got some big walls, standing high and closing out.
Dave and I attempted to paddle out into a "flattened area".... hahaha that was funny.
"Let's wait for the lull" hahaha that was funnier.
We got sucked 100 yards south( thankfully) into a channel area we know of, but could not get to on foot this AM, past "5 Palms". We had wanted to go there but there was no access 'cuz of the large waves and high tide... just cobblestones, boulders and ankle breaker reef exposures under the surface.
We then advanced out only to get beat up more form a series of sets.
I wanted to get out so bad.
After floating in the soup midway out in the impact zone of the common waves I was ready to turn back.
Dave just said "One More Time"
The waves came and beat on us and then there it was.....
our chance....
(to be continued)
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Bill - I am enjoying your blog. I have seen you at Terra mar before but have never been introduced. I did the dawn patrol thing Tuesday and it was EZ going out to the reef.Got some fun waves and felt some of the power left from the weekend. Geting out had to paddle up to the bluffs and use my skills to get out at high tide. Pretty sketchy beach break there these days. I miss the sand.
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