Snap Crackle Pop ....... big waves

SATURDAY's dawn patrol proved interesting.
0615.
Didn't really linger on the visual check scene, purposefully. Suited up and made my way down with a guy I've seen a lot but we've spoken twice. Big dude, good surfer,and he's in
TRUNKS !?!. I'm one upped again
Ok. anyways. its glassy I know it's big and there is an immediate lull and off we go, with out incident, a dry hair paddle out on a big day. Cool.
The sets start coming. Good size shoulder to head. Lotsa walled up thumpers.
I do get 3 nice big waves with shoulders. In that time frame the tide has gone from 4 to 6 feet.
0730 Time to get out.
Hmmmmm... how to get out? Waited very patiently until the shore break wave looked right picked me up and "put" me onto the hamburger patty sized cobble stone beach. The hurty when you walk on em or get sucked back over em kind of stones. It was short but sweet.
SUNDAY Psych out
dawn patrol didn't happen with a 7 foot tide and 8-10 foot faces. A friend, Squaticus Maximus, paddled out 2 min. before my arrival. I would have gone out with him by my side but instead as I was headed down to take off I noticed he was the only one out there, and all the other locals( so many, so much better than I ) were not gonna go.
Took me 5 minutes to psych out ( hate it )
Said I'll come back at lower tide.
Came back at 1230 4' tide and dropping and p
addled into a big wall o water wonderland. Dave and a friend from my work, Eileen made it out easily enough for the conditions. Then the big sets started in.
Eileen got several 8-10 footers. I was very happy to see that. Dave got a great left.
I got a few big ins and outs but nothing long enough to really get super stoked about.
Did count 4 broken and lost boards and subsequent "swim backs" and 2 broken boards in the short time I was out.
I LOVE BIG SURF....I never quite feel so alive as when I'm in it.
I LOVE BIG WAVES....

surf on