Sunday Morning ...............................Ahhh

The waves were still coming frequently and breaking occasional clean-ups to the outside.
It was glassy this morning with a light rain and no wind.
This was a welcome sight.
Saturday morning I had high hopes of big waves and fat rides to the right, that never happened, at least for me.
Saturday, many seasoned surfers were atop the cliffs in their hoodies and steamy cups of coffee. When I pull up and see this it immediately puts me on guard.
So I get over there and see the concern, which was, "will the reward meet or outweigh the price of admission, the paddle out to get outside".
I have learned to trust many of these folks and respect their lessons learned.
So I spent almost 2 hours watching a few surfers get waves, pounded, or their board snapped. Still the rest of the day on Saturday I was haunted by what if?

I've never liked

surfer's psych-out

So SUNDAY morning was a welcome relief.
After watching Greg choose his paddle out spot Mike and I followed.
The paddle out was made without too much ado.
Mike and Greg got a couple nice ones.
I finally settled in about 50 yards south of the paddle out, around 5 palms where there was a lone surfer getting into a raucous right going off.
Although I don't usually bee line straight to a solo surfers spot, I did.
"Doug" was really getting some great take offs, drops and speedy big rights.
He turns out to be really cool and funnier that hell. .
He's kinda super stoked, and I like that. Good guy. Good Surfer.
I got a killer right, he got 3 to my one. We traded take offs.
Had a good surf and redemption from psych-out Saturday.
Also formally met Bob, the electric guy, learned the name of Phil, this super stoked short boarder who is a great guy and surfer.

NICE SUNDAY SURF
SURF ON....

Ya know what is so cool about surfing...

I have described the feeling of getting a really great, long ride, down a glassy, bowled up wall, that is about shoulder high, with the sun shinning and the reef grass moving underneath my board as I listen to the board sing.
That'll put a grin on my face like nothin' else.
What is so cool is that I can then paddle out and pause on the line of a wave where someone else is getting the same kind of ride, and be almost as stoked watching it.
I deliberately do that when the opportunity presents itself.
I have noticed that sometimes when I get a particularly nice wave, as I am going down the line if there are others paddling out, some are very stoked, it is always so cool when others share your joy in real time.
Surfing is such an individual action, yet it is a very communal thing as well.
I love this thing...
surf on...

Swell, Day 3 Thurs, made the paddle out

Thursday after work

Jason, Dave, Pat and I went at it again.
It was Bigger than Wed. but more forgiving ( on the paddle out) than Tuesday, despite the fact that I got to the outside without too much difficulty, Jason and David did not. When I finally was outside far enough to relax, I turned to find Jason but couldn't see him. As I caught my breath I finally did see him approximately 8 minutes later. He was almost outside. This means he was paddling for twice the length of time that I was. Dave was still way inside and now long into a difficult paddle. He would not make this one, this time.
Pat came out without too much trouble. He is my paddle idol !
I Caught a left that was pretty darn big,
did a little dance,
then came up and over the back so as not to get too far inside on the first wave of the day.
That would be my last real chance of getting a nice one that night.
Everything else that came through my way, in my viewpoint, was not the right wave for me. Jason got on a great left and rode it well....way into the impact zone.
I thought I won't be seeing him for the rest of the evening as the paddle back for him would be too much after his initial paddle out.
I was so proud to see him battle his way back to the outside AGAIN ! It was another brutal paddle out, but he did it.
My son, Jason, is one

"Tenacious J"
I am so proud of how he doesn't give up. He just doesn't quit these days.
Pat was dropping a few waves out there. He is a go for it guy. Very cool.
Jason got into a couple. I decided the next one would be a ride in for me and we both rode in for the night. Pat came in about 10 minutes later. Dave was high, dry and warm.
It was a good night. A difficult night. Not a lot of waves were ridden, but the waves were big and power full and it took guts.

Swell, day 2.Wed. Made the paddle out

It was exhausting but at least we...Jason,Pat,Dave and I, got out.
Got a couple then went in.
Good stuff
Good stuff

Swell, day 1. Couldn't make the paddle out

I will get to THAT in a minute...
First the good...

Saturday
and Sunday were good Got some pretty good stuff

and had fun

Now... Tuesday Mid March Swell, Day 1.
Couldn't make the paddle out
This is a source of great frustration for me.
After work today, Jason and I went out at 5 palms thinking the channel there would help.
Nope. It didn't work out that way.
I think I learned something from this one however.
Dave was there on the rocks with his camera, probably hoping to get some shoots of me on some big stuff.
What he DID see was I was mid way through the paddle out, when all I had to do was wait and maintain my position. Get pushed back, then use just enough energy to get back to the same spot, and wait, wait for the inevitable lull that would come.
That lull did come after about 5 minutes.
After I turned and rode the white water back in.
I watched Jason get out twice as far, but he could go no further, no arms left.

I learned I have to think as well as react.
Gonna go again tomorrow night , and he rest of this week while it stays big and/or bigger.

Better to go than not go at all

yes?

OF COURSE !
surf on...

I was in for a long time considering

how long I've been out. IN TRUNKS, just not my trunks.
After an unreasonable bear of a week ( the culmination of months really ) the "big thing" at work was done and our department did well.
I got out at 645 this morning. No real consistency going on but some peaks would show hear and there. I was really looking forward to some spring like warmth, sun and glass.
Well that is exactly what I got. Saw some friends and met some new ones, too.
Someone claimed I got the wave o the day. After a bit maybe 830 I got out due to some heavy leg cramping. Really kind of scared me a bit....it seems to be progressive over the last 2 years.
Ate some food and during this time
I watched Chuck get about 6 waves and ride em ( like always ) REALLY WELL.
SUN SHINNING SO WARM AND THE GLASS PREVAILED.
I GOT SO STOKED WATCHING HIM
I WENT TO A FRIEND, MIKE AND ASKED IF I COULD BORROW A PAIR OF TRUNKS.
HE HAD SOME AND OFF I WENT IN FOR A TWO-FER.
Got a few more but in trunks it is always so much better. Got the typical and frequent "he's a kook looks" but I didn't mind at all. Paddled way down to Igors hung out there caught another few then paddled back.
THAT WAS COOL....the trunks and all.
All in all I was in the water today for 4 1/2 hours.
Stoked
Tired...yeah
but,
stoked