I have described the feeling of getting a really great, long ride, down a glassy, bowled up wall, that is about shoulder high, with the sun shinning and the reef grass moving underneath my board as I listen to the board sing.
That'll put a grin on my face like nothin' else.
What is so cool is that I can then paddle out and pause on the line of a wave where someone else is getting the same kind of ride, and be almost as stoked watching it.
I deliberately do that when the opportunity presents itself.
I have noticed that sometimes when I get a particularly nice wave, as I am going down the line if there are others paddling out, some are very stoked, it is always so cool when others share your joy in real time.
Surfing is such an individual action, yet it is a very communal thing as well.
I love this thing...
surf on...
1 comment:
so.. true , stay stoke bro..
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