The waves were still coming frequently and breaking occasional clean-ups to the outside.
It was glassy this morning with a light rain and no wind.
This was a welcome sight.
Saturday morning I had high hopes of big waves and fat rides to the right, that never happened, at least for me.
Saturday, many seasoned surfers were atop the cliffs in their hoodies and steamy cups of coffee. When I pull up and see this it immediately puts me on guard.
So I get over there and see the concern, which was, "will the reward meet or outweigh the price of admission, the paddle out to get outside".
I have learned to trust many of these folks and respect their lessons learned.
So I spent almost 2 hours watching a few surfers get waves, pounded, or their board snapped. Still the rest of the day on Saturday I was haunted by what if?
I've never liked
surfer's psych-out
So SUNDAY morning was a welcome relief.
After watching Greg choose his paddle out spot Mike and I followed.
The paddle out was made without too much ado.
Mike and Greg got a couple nice ones.
I finally settled in about 50 yards south of the paddle out, around 5 palms where there was a lone surfer getting into a raucous right going off.
Although I don't usually bee line straight to a solo surfers spot, I did.
"Doug" was really getting some great take offs, drops and speedy big rights.
He turns out to be really cool and funnier that hell. .
He's kinda super stoked, and I like that. Good guy. Good Surfer.
I got a killer right, he got 3 to my one. We traded take offs.
Had a good surf and redemption from psych-out Saturday.
Also formally met Bob, the electric guy, learned the name of Phil, this super stoked short boarder who is a great guy and surfer.
NICE SUNDAY SURF
SURF ON....
3 comments:
Bill -- I saw you on a killer right yesterday. I paddled out shortly after that. I took the same route out as you Mike and Greg per Squats instructions. I got one or two really good lefts. I was with Mike when you were farther south by five palms. I yell over at you a few times. I think you made the right choice by watching Saturday and going out yesterday. peace out bro
Terry
Ignore the cliff dwellers and coffee drinkers other that to wave and maybe say hi. If you've made the effort to get yourself and your board to the beach, getting wet is mandatory. That is how I do it. No surf forcast review. I can't tell you how many times I was the only one out and was rewarded with a wonderful wave or two. Once that happens tho, you won't be alone for long! Go and enjoy on your own terms Bill.
I like it ! !
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