Terramar

Saturday, April 04, 2009

Are there Sharks out there, or what............?





This is what I wanted to know, as I stood on the cliff,
looking out at lines of shoulder++'s rolling' in,
one after the other.
0700 4' high tide and dropping, clear, glassy, some offshore wind,
and almost everyone was standing on the cliff watching, un-suited up, except I.
They were saying it was too messed up and the paddle out wouldn't be good.
Very close together, hard to get into, then closed out walls, is what I ended up seeing.
I was told I "had to go now"by a Cop I know who surfs there( he's cool )
because I was already suited up, blah blah.blah. I said "oh hell yeah, I'm going", and went down to the beach. There, my head got the better of me. I stretched, and stretched, looking for someone to paddle out with.
Saw my buddy Pat up on the cliff.
We ended up paddling out together in a spot he took me to, and educated me on.
Made it out, a bit tired.
Only 10 people from Warms to the reefers.
Sweet, and on a Saturday morning....go freaking figure.
Although things were calming down there were big, steep, fatties that kept rolling thru.
Enough size, and now great conditions, that put a perma grin on me.
VERY STOKED about the paddle out and wave size.
LONG STORY SHORT......Pat got several.
That's Pat BELOW

I got THE only one I tried for, and took it in...................................................................................
It was big, fat, glassy, fast,and clear with shoulder.
I did it right and took it home.
Things are VERY GOOD
I AM STOKED.

surf on...........

2 comments:

6ftnperfect said...

it was good from 9-11 at ****** St.

Bill said...

Awesome....really a killer day all in all Mr.Fin