Wetsuit OFF ...........Trunks ON

I love to paddle without a wetsuit on.
That is plain and simple.
There is something about it that just turns me on.
Being in the full sunshine, water flowing and splashing on, around and over you. Being thrust through the water by a powerful force.
Nothing pulling on your shoulders, neck, or anything else as you paddle.

I love it.

My son and I had a really fun time in the water yesterday, despite the fact that we barely caught any "waves". There just wasn't much ride opportunity yesterday. We did get a few, but we had a lot of laughs and fun. Laurie came down to watch ( of course, there was nothing wave wise to see ).
Naturally there were 2 or 3 really GOOD surfers there,
Chuck ( rules the place) and Rick,( Erick )
professes his style to be that of a "drunk monkey".
Truly great surfers can and do find anything and
make it look easy.............someday will come, at least I will continue to work for that day for me.
So fortunately my wife had something to watch as far as surfing goes while her husband and son struggled for less than ride able ( for us ) waves.

It was a great day, a great day for all. Find something everyday and appreciate it. It works !
surf on...