My son knows what I like to do.
Surfing with him will always be my favorite thing to do.
Day started out cold and gray. So some Jason/Mom waffles brightened things up.Awhile later things ended up bright blue, warm, trunks, and a bit of a swell.
Surfed for hours. Afterwards Dave came home with us and we relaxed a bit. Then Jason,Laurie, and I all watched a nice blue ray together on my sons killer high def set up. Topped off the night with a root beer float and I'm one PROUD and HAPPY dad ! !
Happy fathers day to y'all, its a great thing being a dad and surfing with your son (children).
surf on....
About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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2 comments:
And Daughters!
My son, approaching three years old asks constantly if we can go surfing. He watches my surf films, flips through some surf photo books and has a very specific idea of what surfing is to him. Whether this will translate to us surfing together when he is older, I can't say, but I have my hopes. It must be a blessing to do that with your son.
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