Terramar

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES

Going front side, doin mean rail grabs to get out of the late take offs.
Going back side, doin mean pig dogs to get thru and around the white water and onto the steep shoulders.
Dropping down the peak, cutting deep bottom turns and slowly standing on the way down the line.

I am hoping the forecasters are right, that the shape is there, and that my arms and body are strong enough now, just to get the opportunity.

I used to go out without too much concern,
pre surgical crap------>
Now thing are a little different for me, but I won't ever give up
getting back to square 1.

we'll see
surf on...

5 comments:

Unknown said...

Never give up man! Good luck on the swell and have an epic time!

jmarkow said...

I think it delivered today. I hit the water around noon and had a blast! Did you make it out?

Bill said...

Got out at 430pm
didnt get but 2 waves
but had a perma grin for hours :)

jmarkow said...

I called it after two as well. Tried to get out for 20 min, ended up taking a med sized wave in... Crashed on the beach for a few min, caught my breath, tried again and got all the way outside without getting my hair wet... luck of the draw I guess. Managed to hold out for a sizable set, took it right, called it a day. Think I am still on a bit of a high.

Bill said...

Love that