Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !

The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired.


Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out

We are floatingbetween Paul and the beach, as he is getting tubed, beautifully tubed.
Paul is in the photo below.. NOT"the tube" but Paul, none the less.

As Chuck and I watch him come out of the green room he raises his hands in a victory "touchdown" kinda thing.
I was stoked just watching him in that pipe so close up, from the inside.
As I paddled by him I was kidding and said, "Oh I thought you were on your SUP"
He just smiled and said ,"Nah, this day is all about the Tube Fest"
Well.... he was right
and the time was finally right for little old me !

I caught a few nice outside to inside speeders and watched others gettin' covered and then coming out. There was some great surfing goin on this morning.
** THEN I got an outside right, stayed with it to the inside, started speeding up then squatted down and dug my hand into the face...
next thing I know, all I can see is white water, and I am in and covered up, but still flyin down the face. After a few seconds I came out, could see the shoulder again, stood and flipped over the back side of the wave. S T O K E D ! !
Chuck saw it, AND a woman happened to be taking pictures
of the only guy out there in TRUNKS (yours truly of course), so I may get a shot of that.
Anyways, it's etched in my head and heart forever.
1st good cover up ! !
hell yeah

surf on...