Swell, day 1. Couldn't make the paddle out

I will get to THAT in a minute...
First the good...

Saturday
and Sunday were good Got some pretty good stuff

and had fun

Now... Tuesday Mid March Swell, Day 1.
Couldn't make the paddle out
This is a source of great frustration for me.
After work today, Jason and I went out at 5 palms thinking the channel there would help.
Nope. It didn't work out that way.
I think I learned something from this one however.
Dave was there on the rocks with his camera, probably hoping to get some shoots of me on some big stuff.
What he DID see was I was mid way through the paddle out, when all I had to do was wait and maintain my position. Get pushed back, then use just enough energy to get back to the same spot, and wait, wait for the inevitable lull that would come.
That lull did come after about 5 minutes.
After I turned and rode the white water back in.
I watched Jason get out twice as far, but he could go no further, no arms left.

I learned I have to think as well as react.
Gonna go again tomorrow night , and he rest of this week while it stays big and/or bigger.

Better to go than not go at all

yes?

OF COURSE !
surf on...