Surfing Subjectivity: part 1

Surfing is an amazing thing really. It is incredible that I can go out on a day, today, that looks horrible
( Windy, gray, chop, cold misty air  with infrequent lines and waves that are "junky and funk filled ) and have as much fun, or  even more than on a "beautiful" day, warm, clear, calm, glass, with waves, 
(Ah yes, today was the polar opposite of yesterdays MORNING weather conditions)
Some days have big outside waves and its great
Some days have no waves at all to speak of, very few rides, and IT'S great too.
To me that is special

I wonder if this is in part, due to my lack of 
1) Surfing experience,
2) Physical condition
    and yes,
3) Skill.
 Meaning that if I were a lot better, and skilled with experience I would run into days that weren't  as fun because condition expectations were higher?
I know and surf with some that are upset when they ( or I ) miss a single wave. I understand how missing many waves is frustrating.... but a single wave ?

Anyways, today I was in trunks @ 6AM and it was a horrible looking( Windy, gray, chop,  with infrequent lines and waves that are "junky and funk filled ) day.
However I got 4 really fun waves, considering the adversity of conditions and only 3 people were out in it.
I enjoyed the camaraderie of a "crappy day"with a friend and a new friend.
I enjoyed the waves and longer rides than I am used to

I ENJOYED this (crappy) day

I love surfing.
I am forever grateful.

Thanks Mother see ya tomorrow morning at 0530

Mother Ocean WAKE UP we need you ! !

Super Water Stoke

Last night, after work, my son and I got out.
The Temp was perfect and the water clarity was the best I have seen in years.
Sunny Glass, lots of fish below. Super beautiful!
Special after work surf for sure.
Loved it

Good stuff Man...Summer stuff !

Jason demonstrates the rare turtle dismount move 

at a very small, but FUN Terra Mar

I haven't really surfed much with my son Jason this year. We have both been to "busy" with work in one way or another. Last night he says he would like to go out Sunday morning, as he now is working 4-10's at his day job plus the Saturday fish market gig. So this effectively gives him 2 days off per week, a luxury for him. I surf almost every weekend doing the Dawn patrol thing. Not really a purist at DP anymore, I will wait until 0530-0600 to get there. Anyways with the lack of any real swell.
 I decided to not drag him out in the almost dark and maybe go surfing in the sun light. Wow what a concept. Anyway got out at 10 in bright sun and reasonable glass very warm water today 70 no sweat. TRUNKS, SUN, GLASS, my son with me..... GOOD STUFF MAN !! We each got a few small ones. I video taped him doing the famous turtle roll dismount and we both had a smile and a laugh. Nice.... Back home to another great summer thing.... our plumerias.

Happy Independence Day 2012

I love the Fourth of July Independence Day. It is a feel good day for me and mine.

Got in today (solo) at 545am Silence Trunks Glass Reef grass Schooling fishes below me Overcast Small little waves. Paddled to the reef and was completely alone save one seal and whatever else lay beneath. Got about 4-5 small stand ups and rode slowly looking into the calm water below my board. Terry came over and joined me at about the right time as I do enjoy peace and quiet and also company. We each had a couple little rides, just as 5 people started their paddle out we got out and I called it a day. Nice relaxed 2 hour surf. Really very different to surf in solitude, just you and the ocean. Very nice Very rare Happy Independence Day

Had one of those Rare Days today.. ALOHA

1-2 feet forecast.
Woke up at 430 tossing n turning over work.
Loaded up and headed out despite the forecast and cameras .
Arrived at 0545 and put on the trunks with out checking the water.
Went down, stretched and looked a some empty peaks and glass in virtual solitude at houses.
Paddled out and hooked a right that rode for a bit, to my surprise.
Then a couple 3 more.....
Saw Mike, Steve,  Chuck, and some other friends surfing an occasional reef breaker and paddled over there.
As soon as I arrived a pretty decent peak came through and surprised everyone. As they went out the back I got into the pocket after a nice peaky drop.
Ha ! Wow ! SURPRISE
I rode one of the nicest waves I've had in a long time.
I was laughing out loud in both directions.
It made my day.
Got 1 or 2 more then some one threw the off switch and I exited.

nice group
nice morning
nice waves

yeah

Father's Day Surf

The waves weren't good, although I caught a few and so did my son. IT has been way too long since we had surfed together. I hope to remedy that by surfing with him after we finish work, if only these afternoon winds would stop.
Fathers day itself was cool. Nice breakfast out with my family, a late morning surf with Jason and Laurie at the beach with us.
Jason also made a super "Giovanni's" Hawaiian shrimp dish
 made with the real stuff (right from the van at Haleiwa) from Oahu.
Also good day at home in the garden checking out the Plumerias etc, etc.

a good day  and a good surf with my son.
look forward to more

surf on Jason and Bill

I luv dawn patrol

Today was good at 5:15 AM Trunks only.
Glassy and quiet with waves. Warm peaks showing up, with an occasional nice shoulder. rights,  lefts,  nose rides , and just a few good people in the water.
  Perfect really.
 I did however miss my surf buddy, Dave.


Since his new found love, Betsy, is down "there", we don't surf together so much as before, but I know he's happy and they are surfing Cardiff a lot.
Did the stretch before and after and surfed without cramp incident.
Gonna get more in next week.
I really failed at my attempt to get 5 surfs in this week, I'm gonna end up 3 short.
Oh, well.
Keep tryin' !

surf on.

This Sunday Morning Makes Three

This is an all out attempt to re kindle and stoke myself.
I know that work got the better of me this last year.
I know this now and I know what it will take to get me straight again, both at work and in life.
Surf, surf, surf and oh yeah, SURF
With god willing and the love of my family, I will get back to good thru surfing.

TODAY was me, all alone, and in between a reef pack and a pack to the North at the "stacks".
Trunks, glass warm water and some set waves that would take me for short and sweet rights.
In fact I got 10-12 waves in the hour  0600-0700.
I WAS VERY STOKED ABOUT THAT.... I made a great call with out too much "thought"

Of the last 4 days, I have been  in the water 3 times.
Side note;  the stretching before hand is really working, patience really is  a virtue, Bill.

oh yeah, my senses are returning.....
this week must contain 5 surfs minimum.

wish me luck, I need it ! ! 

This morning was " two"

Got in the water at 5:45 am that is......yeah the real dawn patrol stuff. So it's gray out and there is a nip to the air, I don't bother looking at the water to check it out. I saw it was glass , but didn't look at size,shape,frequency etc.As I am getting into my TRUNKs,Terry, a friend who is suitng up asks, "are you gonna look at it"? "No, what's the point" is my reply, meaning every word. I had put on a 1ml shirt and then took it right back off, and he asks, "not gonna where your top.""Nah, what's the point?" I was in a perfect state of mind for what I wanted to do. Surf without thinking about anything, nothing , doing it exactly as I want. in trunks, in glass, at 545 am There were only three people in the water, all off them at the reef. Terry says let's go there, he always surfs the reef, I never do. I would normally think about it, not today. No thinking. Just doing. Ok. Reef it is, regardless of the fact I never surf there and for REASONS, reasons=thought, So the thought of my struggle with surfing That damn reef left does not even occur to me. Terry says a prayer, stretches a bit and heads out, I continue to stretch my ridiculous hamstrings with out thought. Jus stretch the mothers so I don't get grapefruit sized knots my thigh in 15 minutes.. paddle out. Say hi to a few, go to the south so I can catch rights instead of the ever present reef left, and get about 6 smaller knee to waist rights with nose, etc. Real nice. I went for a left or two at the end of the surf, missed em, and finally picked one and rode it in right behind Terry. we got out, Waeed back down the beach to the cars NO CRAMPS at all this day a real 180qfrom 2days ago. A really nice Saturday morning surf. looking forward to trying for 5 surfs this coming Monday- Sunday and rinse and repeat, and rinse and repeat, and repeat, and repeat...... Surf on

Last night was "One"

Last night, after work , in an all out effort to break a nasty all work no surf cycle, I called Dave, and promised him I would go out "no matter what it looks like".
Did it!
As I suspected and forgot, that did wash away the days troubles almost as instantly as I got in the water.
Trunks , sun, swell ,with some bump and chop.

There was no one there. I surfed and got 2 rideables in 15 minutes. Then a few others came out, but I had a spot to myself and got a few more, despite the bump.

Fought terrible leg cramping the whole time, but....

it worked.....

"Two" please !

All work and no surfing makes Bill a dull boy

Can I break this wretched cycle ?

Hope and faith are always good.

Trying things a bit differently at Home Break

On a Thursday night my boss was kind and agreed to give me the next day off.
So yesterday, Friday morning it was kinda hooky like, and a great little Am surf to boot.
Just quiet, glassy, peaks scattered about. Just a few others out. 
I was going right  90% the time, even though the lefts are better and more frequent.
I know I want to surf front and back side, but it is really a treat to go front side and right at.

When I go right the drops,the speed, the form, the turns and the experience always seem better,
my exit.....well lets just say that I "can Exit" a right with a little class and style.
Blah blah blah....I'm loving just going right the last few times and plan on a lot more of just that.
This morning Saturday was a repeat  got in a 0600....  got some great rights and the rest of the early Dawn Patrol crew is goofy...so   yeah!  I get all the rights I want.. no pressure.

Look forward tomorrow, Sunday Am 0545 in the water
Maybe trunks very soon too, as the water is seriously warming.

surf on...

This morning it was.......

Not this

Nor this

IT WAS instead                                                 THIS

This

This

and                                                                 This

Wow ................. ! What a great Spring Surf

Dave, Pat,Kyle and I had the place to ourselves from 0930-1215

Perfect, nice size, beautiful weather, big smiles n hoots !

I got my fill of nice steep fast drops and shoulders
so did all I believe.

Just a perfect little surf.

surf on

Saturdays waves were a sight for sore eyes.

Getting out Saturday AM during the start of this WNW SSW combo swell was exceptional.
Very glassy, should/head high rights and lefts with shape and shoulder were on tap in the DP and Post DP session. The reef and the beach were goin' off, drawing the majority of surfers to those spots, giving me some much needed solitude at 5 Palms where some real beauties were coming thru less consistently. This scenario proves very good for me, as I can pick and choose more to my liking, rather than be forced in or out of waves due to crowd factors.
The day was gray, calm, cold and glassy and quiet, I probably got 6 really nice waves in an hour. Fast, lined up walls with shoulders, length, and just challenging enough.

Really nice end of march
The promise of an after work session tomorrow, Monday, with 6-8 and surfline forecasting
GOOD conditions(rare ) is keeping me stoked thru this Sundays large but blown out AM conditions.

Hope
surf on...

Man I have a lot to learn .......... EVIDENTLY

" Awww man ! There he is screwin' the pooch on another set wave again

( Mean while, out in the water )


ETIQUETTE ! !

ok

So I was in the middle of 2 surfers
AND

I was closest to the peak and didn't go.....

I am afraid that it didn't really warrant the admonishment that ensued

However

The reaction was a bit over done.... and frankly ... well....

I did try to console, to a degree, but .... no

I'll just chalk it up to experience
and
hope for another wave for you guys.

Oh Yeah I did get several really nice rides today and maintained my stoke !


surf on

Annual Daylight Savings shout out !

Daylight savings time is HOPE.

Hope that comes after months of not being able to get out into the water after work. If I AM able to get into the water after a day at work, I am able to wash away my cares almost instantly.
Without that extra hour of light that the Daylight savings change provides,
it's always a struggle to get that done.

So,

Here's to daylight savings time.

I got out on Tuesday and Thursday night.
No EPIC stuff going on other than the fact that I was surfing from 5pm 'till 7:10 Laughing it up with my friends Dave and Pat.

GOOD stuff in the middle of the week.
GOOD STUFF INDEED.

Bam Thursday Night I get the REDEMPTIONSESSION

Rough week at work.....

AND
after last SUPER SUNDAYS PSYCH-OUT SUCK IT SESSION,
I fly down to the water after work hoping for a buddy to go out with
but no one is available.
So..... I make the challenging paddle out alone and hang outside and they start rolling in.

3 or 4 drop down the face, fly out the back, walled close outs,
the kind where you can
launch over and out
AND
3 or 4 super big, long rights, steep drops and long high shoulders.
I really had a great time !!
in EPIC conditions.

Just what the Doctor ordered

surf on

Sunday's Surfer Psych-Out Seriously Sucked

Got there at 0630
Stood there until 0900
Watching
macking walled close-outs with occasional 10ft faces
kept me and my buddies outta the water.
Then it subsided, then I left.
LUCKILY there is(are) more on the way and a chance for
Sunday's Surfer Psych-Out Redemption Session
coming to break near you ( and me ) or us.

SURF (as in you have to go in) ON !

What I like about this swell, big waves, and a New Year

a New Year is exactly that. It is, as much as time could, or should be measured, a major starting point and ending point discussed among all of us.

HAPPY NEW YEAR all of you, everybody, Happy Happy Joy Joy

So with the New Year we have hope, hopefully.
Well, I hope we have great surf.
This last Wednesday good surf did arrive. I was struggling with a myriad of work issues ,( so what's new?) and needed to surf more than ever.So after watching the clock tick down to 445pm...against my will this ticking down....
I bolted from the Carlsbad Lab out to the sea with my board pre-loaded into the truck from lunch.

I anticipated
not enough time
AND
too much resistance to the "outside" from the big hyped waves at hand.
I
WAS
so wrong

This little 40 minute session turned into one of the best in years ! !
Nice large outside rights...and with my nice large 10'3" big board
I was able to get any wave I wanted.
This board is so suited to those conditions.....a match made in heaven.

I got 8 waves in a 40-50 minute session 7 of 'em were just long steep shouldery rights.
I was hollering out loud from wave number 3 on....
PERFECT !

Thank you GOD, family, friends, tide. sun, and mother Ocean .
THANKS ! !
____________________________________________
Today is Saturday and after a cliff session at 0630 am with the

HOODED CLIFF WARRIORS
I headed home to heed my friend Dave's advice
930-1000 the tide will co-operate
and

check your leash string and leash

I did check the leash less than a year old ..... looked at the string.....but...of course

failed to really do the string check.

Back we went and sure enough at 1000 the tide did cooperate and the waves were breaking nicely outside. Had a paddle channel at Ted's and made it out without much ado.
Got a few and then got another spectacular right...
big and long, glassy and sunny., no drop ins just pure wave fun.
I am so glad this has happened.
I have got my stoke on again,
finally it's here.
I am feeling good about my surfing and being again.
I did drop a ridiculous pitted peak, never really stood on the board with full weight, just dove over the board and said a prayer on the way down. I missed the board and was driven down deep.
Then I felt the leash let go....damn.... the string I was warned about and didn't check.

Took another on the head and began the loooooong, back float trip to the beach amidst some poundings. Dave did come in and we got another string from his truck and went back for more...

A GREAT DAY OF SURF< adrenaline> and fun.

SWEET !

Now for the other holiday part. The day after Christmas I am going out with my son and others when a person stops me just before entering the water and asks "are you Bill ?"
So I know that when this happens it is usually someone who has found this blog and recognizes my face etc..... this is really a diary of mine a journal of sorts I suppose. It always embarrasses me to a degree that people I never expect to see or talk with read my thoughts about life.
Anyways, Taylor, has introduced himself from Ventura I believe, and tells me that he is stoked I recovered from my surgical nightmare et all. I say yeah it's much better out here the in the "scary room" (hospital). He tells me of a prostate surgery he went through and about reading my blog and all.
I was stoked to see a fellow wounded warrior of sorts.
I was very stoked to think my writing may have actually helped another.
I hope this was inspirational to him and others who under go great trauma to their bodies and hold onto the stoke of surfing to get through the recovery period....
no matter how hopeless it might seem.

There is always
HOPE
Hope begets action

Happy new year all

let's hope
always

surf on...