Winter 's here cold n Clear ! Swell Yes... Tide NO

Incredible winter weather ! ! Clear Cold nights. Clear Sunny days.
Some days this last week were 80 degrees.
Incredible winter weather ! !

 If only some swell were here.
I remember last November -December we had some really great ones roll through.
I recall some early mornings where only a handful of surfers would paddle out, and once we got out there we had to rest for a good while before even entertaining the idea of dropping down.
Having to choose your waves carefully. Nice heart pounding ones. Big off shore sprays coming over the tops and backs of the faces sounding like a rain storm splashing the water.
I am wanting those water conditions now.
I feel like I could surf those bigger waves better than last year.....
However....
The last 2 days of surfing haven't been so good good for me in that the tide has prevented any of the existing swell to have shape. It has been close outs with occasional open faces.
 On Saturday I mistakenly chose to take the first pre set waves that showed and seemingly missed the set waves that rolled through.
There were a couple that I could have turned on during the paddle back out, but those would have been sketchy for me.( at least in my head I was fearful of missing the drop due to being too deep and being tired. )
I am not good at the "catch a wave, then paddle out and turn on a big wave immediately, scenario, and I regret this.
I missed 2 larger set  waves that way yesterday.
It makes me question myself. Don't like that at all.
Today the tide was sooooo high at Dawnpatrol ( +6)  that there was just too much water to get a good one so I got out with a couple of shorts rides under the belt...good enough. Got out and froze my ass off getting dressed.
Because I stay in my trunks so much longer than most I really think some people enjoy seeing me cold....weird, but I get it.
 What most people don't get is that I don't do the trunks thing to make a statement,
I simply do it because I love the feeling of flowing water over my body and I don't like the restraints of any kind of garment, in or out of the water.
I have a lot of work ahead of me this year in the surf department.
Losing 30-40 pounds for starts. Exiting my waves. Surfing more   at least 150 time instead of this years 100.
Good bye 2013
 Hello  2014 and the hope of all that comes with that

Spectacular December Sunset in the water

My trunks came off in the 3rd week of November, @,@and gave way to the dammed full 3/2
Had a Sunday ( probably surf #90 ) 11 24 13where I think I got 15 waves or more to myself at the reef.

A fellow Dawn Patroler, Mike got a lot as well
 Just us 2 out on this beautiful, glassy, clear, and empty Sunday morning.

I got so stoked on these little waves, it was cool.
 The other night, after work ( Dec. 2) , I put on my trunks again and ran into the water,
It was cold, but so reviving, yes, reviving.
In trunks under the most spectacular Sunset in December

These pictures were taken, for the most part in the DARK, after it was all over,  and they don't begin to do justice to what I was witness to .
That sunset was in full spectacle and changing by the minute for what seemed to be an hour.
I loved it.
When I found other surfers I know had experienced the same thing I got even more stoked.

So THANKFUL
So very grateful..

Im a great Surfer.....whoa, Huh?

Hah  # 78
No, of course I am NOT a great surfer. But of course I aspire to be good, and to improve, always.
Am I stoked?
Hell yes, I am STOKED  !

I am improving. Yep .
What is astounding  is that the process takes so long, at least for me.
I have gotten a few really nice critiques/compliments over the last days. THANKS to those that do this.
It keeps ya goin' !
The waves were good this morning and the crowds were way less than the day before thanks to a party that most of the " locals " attended.
A really good day of surfing....
I'll take it   as always

surf on..

Wow there ARE ~ ~ ~ W ~ A ~ V ~ E ~ S ~ ~ ~

 # 77 After a month of flat or really small surf mostly we all get a push from mother O.

A clean, strong 545am push for me today.
Glassy, foggy, and un-used to anything over my knees in quite some time,
The Dawn Patrol ( about 5 of us in total ) set out to the reef and the houses.
I was walking towards the reef with my friend Terry,as it was going off, and decided to stop short and surf houses instead with Mike.
So walking too far past the houses paddle out channel I think... meh, its no big deal, and paddle out.
It's been so long with out waves that I forgot you shouldn't paddle out there really as there is no channel. So I get worked a bit in W A V E S.... surprise. A GREAT SURPRISE
Made it out and then got the fastest wave Ive had in a long time. A real long time.
F u n ! !
Got a few more then it got a bit crowded by 7am > the second shift showed up about an hour early today...Can't blame 'em I suppose.

So I got out and at right about the perfect time too.
Had a really good surfer I admire greatly paddle up to me after a wave and in a really stoked way congratulate me on a great ride. I love that ! It is so rare I ever get THAT !
Made my day.

A really good morning
So glad to be on some waves with some juice again.
Super stoked !

Surf, Sit Down (on that board), and Shut up #75

This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday.
Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son, Jason.

He reminded me (again) that I have no exit skill or even strategy after I finish a wave.

Basically for 10 years,
 I have been riding a wave to its ( or my own ) conclusion and then stepping, shooting, or otherwise JF Kooking off the board.
Ugly for sure. Definitely subtracts most any style points I can rack up during a ride
I've  known it but never cared, save a handful of times , to try to correct that.
So with my son's encouragement I will work on this in earnest. 
Well in the last four days of surfing I have at least sat down on the board at the end of the ride probably 30% after all waves I've stood on.
Doesn't sound like much, but wow, it is a lot better.

Mostly flat again these last days,1-3's, but the conditions,  weather and water have been insanely good for surfing.
I have loved surfing for days in a row and with my boy.
 Keeps me fired up and STOKED despite some very funky other aspects in my life.
 So for me it's gonna be SURF, SIT DOWN,  SHUT UP

I'm stoked

surf on...

69 is Devine.... been waiting 3 weeks for some, and

 session # 69 of the year comes through.
 After 3 weeks of very small surf...ankle to knee surf, we get a swell in the water on
LABOR DAY WEEKEND, crowds too, but none-the-less a fun sized swell.

Friday night after a, well,  a week of workstration, I am alone at home and decide to "go out you fool".
 It was 100 degrees and the water was probably 70. Humidity at 90 I would say
Despite the high tide there were a few bouncy waves to ride. Bouncy from the water rebounding off the cliff at the reef. The kind of waves that jack up with the reverse swell then the wave takes you on a little elevator ride up and down until finally it breaks. Like a rodeo, really.
Anyways the relief and release form the work week was so very much appreciated by myself that I got really stoked about the promised swell and end of the West Coast August Drought.
Saturday morning I arrive at Terramar at  Zero Dark Thirty to a full parking area. Wow.
So I trunk up and go right to the reef as its actually breaking there...
W A V E S are again in San Diego after virtually nothing for so  long. I mean really I am driven to "the reef" (without hesitation) from drought conditions for so long.
Most of the time at the reef the better surfers get most of the waves.
Now I love to surf but I know my abilities and although I over step them, rather frequently too I hope, in an effort to improve and aspire to my dreams of surfing, I am realistic enough to realize, well the reality of the situation. Which is why I choose to surf north of the reef most always.
The wave is less critical and certainly the people who surf there at " the houses" are less critical as well.
 Anyways this Saturday like a starving Hyena I venture straight into the pride of Lyons and guess what?
They were all in seemingly THE WRONG SPOT
I was evidently in THE RIGHT SPOT !!
Yay me !
It was like
Bill 12  
Reef PRO's 2   and there were about 20 reef PRO's by 630am
Ha
Had a good reef day.
This great day carried over into Sunday and Monday even though my count dropped dramatically.
Still was super stoked
Still am super stoked
Lost my reef inhibitions finally
Poof !

GREAT LABOR DAY WEEKEND SURF
despite crowds
GREAT

Saturdays super small Surfing Safari..... F U N ! ! # 64 sometimes good things come in small packages

Got in at 0530 with only 2 others
So flat
So quiet.

So Summer
Maybe some of the highest part of  peaks were waist or shoulder high.
Most were knee or under as I see it.
Got one then headed to the reef as houses was just too micro.
Saw Dwayne and Bill get a few knee highs so I said yeah ok
Got there and immediately glided into a nice left with a knee high face that just kinda went on.
This new board can glide so softly in smaller stuff and catches them by itself .
 I can move it around also.
I'm liking it !
Deebs came over and we had a good talk and then a few more rolled in. It was so glassy and calm the you could just paddle, stop and glide then pick up the swell. The little shoulders would bowl around slightly and these sweet micro faces would just glide ya along to the beach. We were splitting singles going left and right 
 Front and front
 It was really super FUN Super Small and peaceful
Us four and some little gliders
 Great considering no one else choose to go out at Dawn Patrol. It just looked too small
 Surf on

 
 

Sunday July 14, 2013 #'s 55 and 56. A two-fer

How often do you get to surf

Terramar beach,Carlsbad, California USA

A L O N E ?

 #55 Nobody on the cliff. Nobody on the beach. 

Nobody in the water,

except I

Due to a road closure for a triathlon, I parked a side street and walked into the dark sea.

Well, I do believe another Bill was in the water down at the reef.
It may as well have been a reef 2000 miles away as I couldn't see or hear anything.
I surfed some nice waves in solitude and with out concern for a single thing.
I could hear my board in the water on each wave.
The channels to the fin make a pleasing sound when the board is moving fast and I'm turning.
This new board facilitates my turning.

A great experience this morning !

#56 Sunday part deux

My son and I went out at 3pm in the broad, bright daylight.

Went to the reef out of necessity ( size can matter )

I caught a nice reef wave amongst 25 others in the line up from outside to in.

Kinda like running an obstacle course.

Jason and I caught our wave in together , only to be hopped and snaked by the PRO's at the reef.

Still, a great day together in the water together for "us".

 "Us"
That's what started the whole thing.

A GREAT DAY INDEED !

Surf number 54

0500 Super glassy

 

FUN ! !

Smaller at houses than reef , but.....surfed solo for maybe 20 minutes  and had some nice

LONG face rides into the beach. Seems like since the sand redistribution last year that there is a reform on the inside that's fun.

Still getting used to the differences on the new board,

Moved the fin up an inch and I believe I like it better all the way back

A new swell coming on Wed, Eve inspired me to request

this coming Thurs and Fri. off.

I look forward to riding this board in a powerful wave.

As of now it seems a bit slow compared to the big blue and yellow,

I need to feel some power under and behind it.

                                                               

4th of July ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Fifty first surf of the year

Bang !

My wonderful board of 7 or 8 years has split open right down the middle.
Filled with " STUFF"
I cut it open and its draining and drying.
Many specialists say just " let her go man ", but it's hard, I mean what if my wife did that when I was going thru dire straits ?

Here's what I found after years of searching for the inevitable replacement board.

 THURSDAY The Fourth of July, #51  was super small and I found I could get into a few of those in a very different way then when on the other board. This board I can paddle, let up, and let the board glide into position and tell me when to stand. That is something I could never do before and it was profoundly different and affects me in a very good way.....Yay !I choose to stay away from friends and concentrate on the board and the wave more. Got out in 2 hours and maybe 10 or so waves ridden,,, small and weak waves but caught and ridden none the less.

SATURDAY  # 52 in at 5 am alone for 30 minutes in the bigger glass. Got many rides on knee high shoulders.

The reef was waist and above, however I stayed away as to maximize the amount of waves to get on my new board. It was good !

SUNDAY, #53 got in first and was joined by my DP buddies right away.

Waves not as potent but I got more delayed takeoffs and got to feel the board under me a bit more.

I am very STOKED on this board.

Was super anxious about it and am now feeling super stoked about it.

Swami's Surfing on Summer Solstice

Sweet ! 

First day of Summer !

I always request this day off

Bingo 

Got in a double surf on my favorite day, in perfect weather!
#45

Swami's swell conditions weren't sooo great, but

I did get to surf with my favorite surf buddy,Jason !

Laurie came too and we had a great beach day in the warm waters and sun.

Got some nice peaky drops and shoulders.

Did my Glad to get that outta the way kooky sled ride.

Then got a handful of nice stuff. So did my son.

Hope he knows how proud of him I am !

I have only surfed Swami's 4 times before.

I can say this.

The line up has a great vibe to it.

NICE DAY !

You-ness, Me-ness, Us-ness, We-nes,..... sickness ? Nah !

As we share the water we are a perfect mirror image

Almost an exact match
Old, beat up, disaster surgeries, stitched back together, and almost functional

Most notably however , we love the water and can still do it.

surf on...

So.Cal. Big South Surfing Swell or bust

The much anticipated Big South shows up.......  so selectively
Today, session 42, was a good one for me. Needed it !

THIS is probably the smallest wave of this day

(#42 of the year 2013 ?  a pitiful number really )
0510AM

This swell was coming in 16 second intervals at about 205 degrees and the sets were all there were.
It was glassy, calm and flat as a lake in between head high sets.

Got a nice long left shoulder all glassy and kinda fast.
Got a Big Drop to the right that formed a great head high wall that I sped down
marveling at the speed and size of the wave the whole way.
That one put a big  shit eatin' grin on my face.
Dropped a big close out to the bottom then got lunch served up
( later in the morning, while bending down to pick up and load my board into the car, about a half of a water glass of warm sea water poured out of one nostril, mmmmmmmm !)
The reef was getting it in spades, a lot of close outs but so big and THUNDERING
I'm glad I stayed at the houses today .
Only 5 people to the reefs 20 at 545am
I am riding the white board now that the big blue has been given a death sentence by Ding King
Once I am up on it I can move it better. Once I am up she's good.
Getting up is a bit harder but I'm getting it.
Yesterday I snuck out at 510 am to sneak in a pre work surf.
I rarely get pissed surfing but I got pissed yesterday.
Went to the reef knowing I had about 1 hour in the water the rush off to work.
20 people there.
Finally get a left and right as I stand a shorter board comes from the inside and makes the wave I'm on.
Yeah happens everywhere but this one got to me because, well, it did.
After polling a dawn patrol buddy, I find out what I suspected, and that was " well he was closest to the peak.
Blah blah blah, yada yada yada, I give him, the snake,  the full finger and go, pissed.
So
I completely snake my dawn patrol buddies parking spot this morning and laughed my ass off over it.
As I slid into the spot( just like that snake did to me yesterday at the reef ) I heard this AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
then he lit his wheels up in reverse and backed down the road the wrong way into a spot .
I thought I was gonna bust a gut.
I am a very bad man.

Surf on

#'s 36,35,34,33,32 Surfs of the year or sum such ting

 #36 Wow  Today ( Wednesday 5/15/13 ) after work and in the water at  5PM
Its my fifth day in a row ~!  This is a good, no, GREAT thing !
Board in the car and right after the job I just hit it...
Trunks, SUNSHINE (something this Dawn Patroler isn't used to seeing) and a few waves.
I have decided to take my long"est" board in for surgery, major stuff. More on that later.
So I am revisiting an old flame, slender and faster and I have barely discovered her sweet spot.
Plan to do a lot more discovering.
This has been a rebirth for me..... I forgot how great it is going from work to surf without going home first.
VERY CLEANSING.
#35
Tuesday after work I felt like I was surfing my 3@ board a little better. Still Great to get out right after work. It gives me hope.
#34 Monday I decide to start going out after work to get used to a new ( old ) board while my big board is in PRE-OP > I hear there is a big swell coming next week and want to prepare for it as best as I can so
I intend to get in as many as I can.
Waves are good-ish but I am not so good-ish.
Still it beats about anything else.
#33 Sunday was at the reef with only DP crew.
Got a few but not a lot. It was fun
#32
Saturday went to the reef with only a couple people. Slipped into some rights.
Usually others forgo the rights for the bowley lefts there, but..... there are a few who go right there now cutting into my once very good odds( for the Reef )

#31..Last Sat., May 4th.I put on a little show

Dawn Patrol with a cold breeze, 

chop,

 me in trunks,...... puttin' on a show,

 A KOOK SHOW

Yep

 

K O O K

Lastly Last Weekend #'s 28 29 30

Feelin' like summer yet?
I am !
Anyways

Last Sat was not all that. Got some and got out.,
At this writing 1 week later ,
I truthfully don't recall it.  I am 57.  
Uh oh.
Last Sun, a bit more fun.
Was at the reef and only the Dawn Patrol was there, I think...hmmm

OK...... LAST NIGHT WAS FUN  as in I was surfing kinda  "funny " but still fun.
Friday night and the swell and  warm 85 degree off shores  were all supposed to be there....

WELL  they were their, and then there was the tide .
Friday came at the end of a rough week at work. More so than usual.
TRUNKS super glass and very warm ( 65) water?
Nothing like Grinding away at work
while there is a nice swell going on. ( Thurs-Fri.)

Any way it was great to get out on a weeknight and wash the work week away.
I put on a show for those that were around to see me bouncing in the high tide.
Laurie is up at Oregon for a week.

Glad to have got out on a week night .......

# 27 SUNDAY A-OK

Now that was really fun !
In at 6am with super glass. The reef was showing some sets that looked chest high or better.
Fellow Dawn Patroler Mike headed there immediately. I choose to stay behind and see if I could pick off waist high peaks with knee high shoulders.

This worked for me today AND I really needed that.
In that first half hour in solitude I had many mellow glides to the right .

I am beginning to really like this type of wave. Especially the solitude and not having to
 wait and choose, it is nicer to pick and choose.
Some others came out and I enjoyed their company from a distance and we all caught some.
I got out of my wetsuit and into my trunks for some more sensuous fun
And Then... AND THEN.... AND THEN......!
A couple of really nice chest high and better sets came all the way over from the reef and through the houses spot where we were.
Nice glassy chest highs....
super sweet...
perfect finish to a super Sunday morning surf !

THANK YOU ! !

Saturday 4/20/13 #26 tHAt wIND SwELL is LIke

Wind swell is most certainly not my cup of tea.
Went to the reef with a friend and, well, I got 1 decent ride,
a right and the rest was an exercise in ...well lets just call it 

weird shit

Fun yes.... weird definitely
surfing IS GREAT that way
always different

weird on

Wed, Sat Sun...#23,24,25

Wednesday April 10th. #23
Glass-ish, TRUNKS, clear skies, no wind
 After a very rough day at work and with the "after work" forces working again' me, I do make it out to my first mid week surf with my son this yea.r
Wind swell and a semi difficult paddle out at 545 pm make it an OK surf.
Well frankly, I must say it was
GREAT
How it "washes away all that is bad", still works(?), WHY ? I dunno and  I dont care to know.
I just know it does, and that is that.

THANK YOU ! 

So we have a good time. My son lost his job of 2 years while on the cusp of getting a new dream job

He did not get the dream job.

He has taken back his athletic self however by loosing 28 pounds and running.

I have faith .

Good to see him catch a few in the water again that Wednesday

  Saturday #24 and Sunday #25 were so similar.

Difficult- for- me- to- catch -wind -swell ,and I go away feeling, "good" about a quality ride or two.

Good stuff but always wishing for some better rides.

I am deliberately exiting the back side of waves....at least on these two days I gave it a shot.

Trunks on Saturday

Wetsuit on Sunday ....bah  wetsuits

 

 

 

Sunday #23 Frustration and then.....

After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get

MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold in the air to trunk it at 615am
I go out looking at larger waves, but catch practically none, as my D.P. friends each get  one or two.
Again too much water for the swell.
So
After 30 min of that I decide to surf my own game and move north.
I finally spot an outsider and point my finger up to indicate that I have seen this to the others so they may prepare. I knew this one was coming north of them and I knew this one was mine.
Jacked and peaked right behind me and I dropped a nice steep left. Had a good ride and was super stoked right there and then.
Sometimes one is all I need
Sometimes I need one
Was perfection really.
surf on...

The Birthday Sessions #21-#22

So I ask for a day off the day before my b-day  Friday 4/5/13

#21

57   wow where did it go and how did it happen soooooo fast?
The forecast was for good stuff 3-6 spread over the days.
Friday was a very high tide at the Dawn patrol .

I have a hard time NOT doing the dawn patrol.
I just love going out first, or close to it .
So   Friday got a few, tidy and hard to get into

Saturday #22

 Saturday was Good too

Trunks and same kind of conditions. Love it though not the wave fest of last weekend .

Funny how waves can be 4 times the size but harder to get into ...such is surfing.

Easter Sunday

​

March ( 23 n' 24) non madness #17 and #18

I am b logging back wards a week. I remember being very pleasantly surprised in the amount of smallerish (waist high) waves that I was able to get. I am learning how to get into waves a little better. I did not surf after work on any days that week or the week following. I let myself down there. I shoulda, woulda, couldaand didnt. Even after promising myself that I would. Non the less, Surf 2013 # 17 was good, and it made me happy. The following #18 wasn't quite as good, more people competing for lines, ah well such is surfing...

Saint Patrick's Day

#16 Sunday ( no Saturday )
Wow I have only been out 16 times in 2013 ? ! ?
Maybe that's why I am in the state I'm in, oh well I can fix that.
Today's Dawn patrol, got there a wee bit late, 0630Am  I felt like it was already lunch time
 celebrating with my girl last night at 333 in Oceanside, seaside by the pier .
Mmmmm  Calamari, Sushi rolls and
the SUPER MARTINI'S 333 is famous for.
A sour kiss= chipotle pineapple monin, cranberry juice,Grapefruit Vodka, a stiff lime foam .
and a Myer Lemon Drop Martini.

Toady's waves were on the smaller side but I got  a few.
Nicer rights for me. Good one for others. Just didn't get a lot .
Had Fun it was soooo gooood to get wet, as it always is.
I did get a good nod from a GREAT SURFER there.
he said I was developing some style. He is right ( seems strange to say )I have seen changes in my surfing, subtle but some style coming thru.
That was really cool to hear.
Over the last month I have noticed very small improvements,
I was hoping to hear a little affirmation and just when I really needed it ....boom !
Promising myself  to get out after work 2 times this work week and

 I'm gonna.

Period

Stoked ! !  

L8Ts

Sunday re-visited and ode to daylight savings

# 15 materializes after much adu and inter cranium chaos.
This mornings failure to launch off the cliff and into the water, WAS mostly due to atmospheric and oceanic conditions, (my head trippin), BUT

I wander back out to Terramar @ 12 noon. 

The wind is just starting and I head off in my spring suit alone. Get a few junked up waves then ride in and remove the spring suit and go back in, in trunks.

 I get a few more in the chilly water but am renewed in the act of surfing without any wet suit .
It is so important for me to feel the water envelop me. To have that and the sun surround me simply turns me on.

 

On an even brighter note

IT"S DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME

This means I may survive myself !

If I cant get out just 2-3 days after work each week,

I might make it through another year !

STOKED ! ! ! ! !

No Saturday and NO SUNDAY !

# non-15
Well not yet anyways.
I had better get some or

It's gonna get f*ckin ugly !

Rough week, rough Saturday ( nuthin' but my own fault )
now no surf Sunday.
Uggh
Somethings gonna give

Sunday 3/3/13 Guilty but GOOD

#14
On time for a Dawn Patrol ! 0545 I arrive to 2 in the water amidst the blackness at The Reef.
Val on her body board at the beach. The official Dawn Patrol on the cliff.
Suit up quickly and in.

Glass with some texture on it. I get into a few long rights again. I think my little Terramar has developed a better shoulder going right now this year.
I get a cheater 5, I think the best ever.
Get a very long inside left.. plus + plus.
Mike, Steve,Cruz and Tim are getting 'em as well. Just us in the water for an hour.
I'm am feeling guilty as last night, after my son came home from a 16 hour day , I ask him if he wants to"surf in the morning?"
His response is " well  like when? 3AM?
Right.
So I suggest around 11am.
5 dark o'clock rolls around and I cant stay put and coffee up and go.
Bad Dad.
Live and learn 
Next observation is that I definitely believe that surfing or the act of paddling for the wave is causing me back issues.
 BACK ISSUES. SHIT !.
THIS is simply not cool, good, acceptable, etc.,etc. !
I need to figure out if I can avoid THIS in the future or I fear my days may be numbered.
THIS  isn't figuring into the plan at all.

Good day, hope to have many more.

Many more ! !

Saturday #13

I was late getting to dawn patrol.
6am
The sun is sneaking out earlier these days.

There is more at the reef then the houses, but more people as well.
I surfed alone for the first 1/2 hour.
Glass, clear skies, off shores.
Solitude.
Silence.
Waves
Slowish... but in that hour of surfing I got 12 or more most of which I felt good on.
Long rides with faced shoulders that went right, waaay right.
The reef  had 16 surfers on it by 630, and while many got good waves there, I had made the right call for me...
Very stoked.

Sunday 2-24-13

#12 of the year
Because of being so sore after Fridays Fun I skipped Saturdays DP
Instead DP Sunday I thought I would play the tides and surf with my son.
Sunny, waves semi glass, and nobody out.
Yes! Surfing with Jason again!
It seems so long ago, now that we surfed so much together.

He hasn't really surfed in a long time. There have been occasional outings but nothing at all resembling consistent. I was in better paddle shape than he, something that I dont like to see, none the less he made it out and we had a good time. So good to see him surf again. He's been working 6 days a week for 2.5 years now.

We had a good time

I had a great time being "we"

Stoked