WeekEnd update. Back in the saddle again

Saturday was... well OK. I hadn't been in the water for 2 weeks.
Which is way too long.
Got a few waves but nothing particularly memorable.
Sunday panned out way better.
Glassy and some waves as I stood on the cliff @ 7am DP
What was amazing is that Saturday saw 25 people in the water by the time I exited 10am.
SUNDAY, I WAS ALL ALONE as far as the eye could see. Because of that fact I paddled south to Igor's reef, all ALONE. Immediately caught about 4 waves breaking outside in the SUN and Glass, beautiful. All I could figure is Saturday was such a disappointment that every one just stayed out. As I surfed I was amazed at the utter solitude, except for seals and dolphins. After an hour, I saw 1 person in at Terra Mar. That person was doing the hundred yard paddle towards Igor's and myself. Oh well, I continued to get waves. When the surfer reached me, I recognized him to be my #1 surf buddy. COOL
We surfed for another hour all alone for as far as we could see. Loooooong rights and lefts. Beautiful Glassy, sunny, aloneness in head high peaks with long bowling chest high shoulders....... AWESOME..... nice way to break a 2 week surf fast.

surf on

Saturday Fun @ Tamarack South Jetty

DP today was good. As I drove by T a Rack I saw some nice stuff breaking and only 2 guys there. Continued south to Terra mar and met up with my buddy Dave. I suggested going back up north to T a Rack
( doing what I said I would do, and surfing different spots.)
Man, when we pulled up, some sweet sets were coming thru.
Got 2 or 3 real head high takeoffs with some real PUSH to them, and some long shoulder, so did Dave.
I did my one obligatory FUBAR- kook- out, on a way late takeoff , but thankfully turned right around a grabbed a couple more keepers.
This spot has been a major psych out for me, as 3 years ago I got caught where
I had NO business to be. I had none of that hanging over me today. I'm over it, finally !
The rising tide finally began to swallow the PUSH and them the shorties came out to play.
Spent 1 1/2 hours there then David had to bail. I made a good call on that one :)
Sooooo I headed back south to home break and paddled out for some more. The waves just weren't there though. Still managed a couple insiders and had great fun with some friends in the bright sun and glass..
A nice 4 hour session in total. Got home and paid the price for taking 3 days off without my wife, then disappearing for 4 hours this morning. I have some balancing to do......
p.s. I have seen pictures of myself surfing with my mouth open as if I'm saying ooooo and David commented on it today LoL.
1)I will attempt to shut the piehole,
2)stand to the rear of the board more, when appropriate, and
3)continue to surf at varied breaks......

surf on....

Friday Dawn patrol

Got out @ 7am. Very cold air, very cold. Hung out in the truck with the heater on reluctant to put on the wet cold suit. As I sat I saw that Warm Waters Jetty was breaking with some peely right shoulders, although small. It actually looked pretty fun and only 3 were out.
Very glassy where it was breaking and the tide on the rise from 3 ft. up to 5ft.@10am.
Put that wet cold sucker on and headed out.
My first ride was pretty good. I have only surfed that wave 3 times. I felt good about going to a different spot ( classic short board spot ), none of the usual munchkins were there.
Got a few more fun rides in the 2 hours out there. The tide was rising fast and killing my spot equally as fast.
Stoked to get glass, clear skies, and a few rides.
I have realized that when I surf my best still depends largely on where I'm surfing and on which board I'm on. I know my confidence is way higher @ Terra Mar home break.
I am deliberately going to force myself into more spots to broaden my surfing abilities.
I see now that it is important to becoming the surfer I want to be.
Im also going to try hanging back more to the rear of the board instead of taking my Tahitian war dance stance in the middle of the board all the time.
So much to learn. So much to try. I'm glad for that. Longboarding is a very intricate thing, I'm stoked on that as well !

surf on...

Wed Sunshine and Glassyness

Went out @ 12noon looking at offshore conditions and pure swimming pool glass.
Immediately decided to make the 100 yard paddle to Igor's reef as it was the only thing breaking really.
Water was reasonably clear considering the weather last week and it was cool. Sun was warm.
I really wanted to get some good waves but there just wasn't much power or form , which led me right down the kook road. I managed a few OK rides but many more kook outs. That Igor's wave at the yellow houses can be a real challenge, especially when its smaller.

Going out on a DP in the morning.... we'll see.

surf on...

Sunday was C O O L

Got out early on the DP and was treated to off shores , glass and bright blue skies. It was a littletidey so the beach break 'tween Warmies and Terra Mar was my call. Got a couple, then the spot" got a little crowded very fast.
Soo I paddled south to T Mar and got maybe 6more, 3 of those were really nice, glassy walls allowing me to make some speed filled turns.

Got my fill all alone......ahhhhhhhh.

Got out and up to the cliff and after 2 min in the truck towards home I was amazed to see the foothills totally dusted out in snow..... beautiful.

Surfing and snow ........ awesome, I love it ! ! !

surf on....

2nd day of 1st winter biggy Almost Magaine Cover

Day 2 of swell.... "Almost Magazine" picks me for the Cover shoot.
It was BIGGER, maybe twice the size of day one. I figure it was a 4 tier soup bowl. The waves were outside that and coming in sets of 5-10 waves with a clean-up of 2 in each set.
Well I guess I didn't pass this test. Suited up @ 350pm. Saw my friend Pat, he was trying to get out. Against my better judgement of paddle out spots, (small rip down @ palms) I chose going out close to a buddy( the buddy thing was a good choice).
I paddled for what seemed like 30 min. and got to within one wave of outside. I simply ran out of breath and strength at the worst time. I just couldn't hang, and turned. Pat made it outside. 5min. later there was a lull. I didn't make it long enough to catch that lull. I was so close.
I took this really hard.
Gonna fix some personal habits.
Gonna cross train for cardiopulmonary.

Hell I'm stoked I went at least, better than not for sure.
There's only one choice for me,
surf on...

1st day of 1st winter biggy

Well.... with what seemed to be
the whole world joined in a conspiracy to keep me outta the water,
I made it.
Cried like a little girl to get out of work @ 3:15.
Jason and I got in the water @ 3:50
Wave sets rollin' in.
Some nice steep drops, big fat swell under the feet, great weather, niiiiiiiiice.
Had to get out 45 min later to go to a show with wifey.
It was the best 45 min I've had in awhile, oh the show was good too !
My son got a killer right, and steeeeep drops.
I think I rode 5 waves in those 45 min. but the heart was pumpin and smile was out.
Good 1st day.
tomorrow.......
surf on...

Im ready

12/21/2005 TerraMar

I've been going out 200+ sessions each year for 2 years since Big Wed. 12/21/2005 for a reason.
That reason is because during that swell, I couldn't even get outside on the paddle out.
I am 51 years old. I have been surfing for 6 years now. The first 3 years of that I don't even count as "surfing", as I only went out maybe 20 times a year.
I'm never going to be like I was @ 25-35 years old. I will never have that level of strength and endurance again.
BUT I have significantly improved my paddle power and surfing intelligence since 12/21/05, and I'm really hoping I can get a chance to try myself out in the face of what was once way above my limit.

I hope
We will see.
Surf on......
P.S. as I am typing this the news reports a seasoned kayaker spotted a 25 foot shark in La Jolla cove today, probably just a ploy top scare everybody out of the upcoming swell... GULP

We've all read the forecasts

Hopefully the weather and swell line up together.


I have not been out now for 7 days. This is not ideal in my mind. I would like to have had a couple in before this WNW swell arrives, but work and weather have not made it easy.
Work still conspires against me for this upcoming week.

Plan A:
Monday PM warm up.
Tuesday PM in
Wednesday PM in
Thursday AM DP

I hope....
we all get some
I hope....
I can meet my expectations
surf on....

Hope

I read a forecasters blurb the other day on shurfshot forecast. A possible swell showing up this coming Monday 12/03/07
THAT forecaster eluded to a swell model looking similar to the one that came on 12/21/05 and permanently changed my life( at least to date)
I remember 12/21/05. Wednesday.
I remember my frustration of not even being able to make the paddle out 3 days later
( thank youGod, for I was nowhere near ready).
This is a gallery of that swell, read through it. All of the pages of photos are great.
The comments are equally as great.
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves?page=1

I'm willing
I'm able
I hope

surf on

ThanksGiving WeekEnd Update

Thurs. went to the In-laws in Thousand Oaks. Lotsa food,fun, and family. No traffic or hassles. Beautiful weather. It was good to see everyone and indulge.
Fri. Did a dawn patrol and it was swamped out big time
Sat. 6am "" " " " " " " "
Sat @ 11am returned and went out in the spring suit. Alot of texture and some small sets every 15 min. Got 2 good rides outta 5 rides. Hung out with the Ted in the water and had fun.
Sun. Went in at about 630am. Glassy, high tide, close outs. Air was cold in the am, felt like Winter.
Did a long paddle south to watch the high tide waves slam the cliffs, as not alot of "ride ables" were there for me. On the paddle back caught a few. My son had showed up on the cliffs with a camera ( uggg ). I always have a little different "minds eye" view of my form than what the photos show. Always room for the improvement, hehe, shish.

Oh yeah, Im thankful very much so.

I love Thanksgiving day.
Count 'em up and think about it. Take stock in it. Its really all there is.
It's the right thing to do. Appreciate actively all the good things we have.
I try to do it daily and never loose sight of what I'm thankful for.

My wife and son, and the time we have together.
My family here now and in the great beyond, and their love for me,their guidance, and wisdom.
My home, my job and that they are close to work and Surfing.
Thank God and nature, mother ocean, the sun, the wind, and the rain.
My friends.

S U R F I N G

OK surfing. Surfing has turned my life around. It is a large part of me now. I go as much as possible. It cleanses me each and every time. IT is my fun, challenge, fear, thrill, workout that keeps me healthy in mind and body. It plugs me into nature and God directly, every time I go, every time. Each time is different. Different friends and acquaintance's, different waves,weather, and conditions. Different challenges, and different responses from my head and body and emotions. The glass, the warmth,the cold, the victory at sea, the "at one -ness". The whole thing changes and changes again, always interesting, always different.
The peace, the successes, the defeats, the chance to always improve. Hope of an epic day. Finding and epic day when you least expect it....from nowhere.
God...the water, water,water,water, and its ability to always fill me with wonder and amazement. Surfing is so sensual, it floods the senses, heart and soul.
I could go on and on, LoL and I do, for that is what this blog is. I have read alot lately about what surfing IS and whether or not it defines people.
Surfing has defined me, not the culture so much, not surfline or the crowds or any of that crap. Not the blogs I read, or the products I choose.
Surfing is what I choose to do for the reasons above. Not for any ones approval, disapproval or otherwise. It is what I love, and for THAT reason

I AM A SURFER.

Happy Thanksgiving Day

surf on...........................................................................................................................

Monday Eve

Got out with my son Jason @ 4pm. Glassy, and still s o m e size on the sets.
Cool water and air. Few people out. Got alot of waves and so did Jason.
So great going with my boy. I love that ! ! ! Its a real gift. Its "priceless"
Got lefts and rights compliments of the North Westerner. Winters comin back and just in time.
I love the way that just when Ive had enough of wetsuits the summer comes.
Just when I'm sick and tired of summer crowds and "noise" the winter comes and thins it out real good.
It's all good, ALL OF IT ! ! !

surf on........

Got size ?

Sunday morning we got some. Wow its been awhile since I've stood on anything that high. I believe Labor day was he last time I felt like that.
Got in around 7, but was missing my son. He had stayed up too late the night before, so he surfed the sheets. Bummer, I am missing him surfing with me. It seems he goes with me less and less now. Im gonna work on that, quick.
Was tempted to go a little north to WWJ, but.........the right was packed and pounding people.
Watched a single surfer ( a confirmed wave magnet and a contrary )
surfing a spot solo and observed the wave direction. Yep, winter style. Paddled south of him a bit and got a few rights. Some folks then paddled out who failed to have their big cup of shut-the-f*&k up beforethey came to surf and I paddled another 50 yds. south for the quiet.
Took awhile, but as the tide moved lower I was rewarded with some sets that had some real size, although a bit walled.
I think I handled the walls better because of my evening surf sessions last week. Surf by "feel".
Finally got a big, fat, tall ,fast right. I've been waiting for that for a long while.
Glassy,steep, high and fast. Sa weeeeet.
Looking forward to more of that, maybe with the next SantaAna's !

surf on......

Great GREAT stuff

The last 3 Nights were magic.
Pure glass, few people, warm air, and cool water with a slight offshore.
Off in the distance a silhouette of the islands against the fire red glowing band on the horizon . To the west clear skies fade from red to light blue to navy, to purple to black, the crescent moon surrounded by a few stars. This happened @ 5:20 pm
All of this, all at once, was spectacular !
THEN the W a V e S come in ! !
Shoulder + peaks, pure glass with lots of long navel sized shoulders. Rides from outside to the sand, over and over and over. A long board, soul surfers dream.
H e a v e n !

WED EVE SESSION WAS ........

Almost identical to yesterday eve. Too crowded @ Tamarack with too many short boarders on waves closing out too fast.
Went to home break where the swell has 2/3rds less size and waves but......... because all the folks were at other breaks I got my 6-8 good waves all to myself. I polled surfers from north and south of me in very crowded lineups( more than 20 per peak ) and the wave count was the same or less than mine. So.........

surf on folks, surf on

Damn you, shortboard bowling pins.

Tamarack was firing big for the first part of the arriving swell. 4 wave sets spaced 5 min between the sets, head high ++.
25 bowling pins crowed into a 10 yard takeoff spot. Not for me, I hate bowling for shorties.
Drove to Terra Mar knowing it wouldn't be as good and it wasn't. I went out.
Caught the first big wave ....... it WAS good.
In 1 hour I only saw 4 more biggies. Got all of them. In between there was NOTHING.
South to Igor's and further south were more frequent BIG FAT WALLS closing out fast.
I'm stoked, hell when Im in the water I'm ALWAYS STOKED, thank God ! !
I'm feeling good about tonight and Looking Forward to the next 3-4 days, hoping my little Private Idaho will pan out.
Hope is a wonderful thing.
Solitude is as well.

surf on........

Weekend Update

Saturday got out @ 630 and the tide was high and the push was weak. Did get a few. Paddled til I got a burn . It was functional. Functional is what I must get back to.


Sunday had higher hopes but nothing to write home about. Caught 2 right away with no one else within 100 yards of me. Warm Waters was curling. The beach was breaking real close in. A few saw my couple rides and paddled south to get some also. I saw a nice one break outside at the reef, heard a couple of ooos and ahhs from my immediate company, so I turned and made the paddle south.
I caught maybe 10 at the Igor's reef and south. One of those was a right ( rare for that spot ) where I got the longest nose trip ever. Both feet 2 inches behind the nose, the WHOLE TIME, a long time. I managed to steer from the front and was astounded by this and how it felt.
I am having breakthrough moments now, much needed after the last month of mediocre surfing.
Looking forward to this week and some decent sized stuff...I'm ready I believe !

Went out and GOT SOME

Haaaa, didnt expect that . Gray and coolish. got there @ 445 pm
No one out.
No chop either.
No wind
Saw some lines. paddle out was easy. water was WARM??.
Slow kinda SW swell sets showed.
My 2 best surfing friends showed and we had it virtually alone.
Caught about 10-12 nice loooooooong board waves. Very Very nice and un expected.
I love that ! !
Gotta keep it up 'til that Southie comes in Sun and then mid week..........

surf on.........

Weekend update

Saturday

Nada, zero, zilch, nothing.
There at 6am, looked 40 min. for a sign of rideable waves, saw none and split.
A drag, as I was still buzzin' from Friday's rekindled stoke.

Sunday

Scarce, rare, lean, and far between.
There at 6am, saw a few, WarmWaters looked like something was happening, but I chose to surf alone and south.
Caught one pretty quick. It was good enough to bring a couple surfers CLOSER to me, bah.
However on my next ride I got covered ! !
I wasn't expecting that. First time I think.
Dropped in on a left that came slightly outside and was riding low in the wave. I thought, "I'm not gonna make the section", so I tucked and stuck it out.
Then just when I thought I had made the section, I felt the thin lip of the wave hitting my back and outside shoulder and could hear it as well. I noticed the curl of the wave just in front of my face and the steepness of the small shoulder past that.
Cool, very cool. It's a step forward for sure. There is so much I look forward to with surfing.

surf on......

Bingo, BINGO ! I got B I N G O ! ! ! !

This Pic is of my Son on the cliff @ TerraMar
This story is about him really and what he does for his very proud Dad.

Finally, I got some of what I needed, whew ! I have been in a surf funk.
Tonight my son kinda talked me into going after work, I was going to repeat recent history and blow it off and then the little light came on and shone through." Don't do that again Bill, remember how you felt when you blew him off last time ?"
We went to our break and the line up was clogged on the inside with grommets on the short stuff. My immediate inclination was to go north or south of the crowd (packed paddle paranoia), then the little light came on again and shone through "Let your son choose, he is not in the funk you are in. "
I paddled out directly into the crowd, following my Son.
I turned on the first wave immediately, stood, stood down would be hoppers(2), and cut back on the snake(1), turned again and stepped to the nose arched back and rode.......ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !

Got another 8-10 nice outsiders. Took "my" waves appropriately and came out cleansed and re-born from the funky monkey week of , well.... crap everything.
Thank you SON, you are my little light when things go dark, I did see it and follow it this time.

surf on.......

Yes....we went out today, a little guilty, a little NOT

Despite the fire situation, my son snuck out at 2-3 this afternoon.
He reports B A M ! ! !
Way, way outside fatso's , on the big board. Just what he needed after 3 weeks-o-nuthin.
He rated his session as one his of top ten surf's. Probably an 8

I got out for 1 hour about 5 pm caught 2 good waves ( not the waves of the day ) There were of course outrages Santa Ana offshores, smoke, and coughing on the paddle out .
I rate mine a 3.75
I want an additional 4.25 added to that. S o o n Please.


surf on.........

Would'a, Should'a, Could'a ,I got work to do

Friday, my son Jason says hey lets go. Well..."it's already 415 pm, the sun will be in our eyes, the internet cam doesn't LOOK that good, my back is a litttle sore and I want the epidural I got the day before to have a chance" etc., etc., etc.
So I talk us out of it. Why, why would I (<==== DUMB ) bail on any session with my son ? MiStAkE ! I missed time with with son. Friends and cohorts claim near EPIC for Friday eve.
Saturday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and miss the best part of the morning according to the line up. Tough paddle out and some late drop fat ones. Got a small handful and was satisfied. As I was leaving the tide was changing and I suspect it got better.
Sunday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and I wait until 9am so the tide can start to drop. Jason and I go and its tough paddle out with strong southern current. Oh there are big ones out there but hard to get unless perfectly in "the" spot for the peak and a paddle battle to get the drop. Then its all do it right and get out clean OR ELSE boooooom !
Jason 2.......Dad 1...... got home and looked at "surfshot".com and the pictures from dawn patrol showed incredible waves at the break of dawn.
MY HEAD, MY TIMING, and MY INSTINCTS are in need of an adjustment.
post script
I will make repair now.
1) Dominate at work so as to get out earlier for more late afternoon sessions.
2) Lose the 20 lbs. I've managed to gain back and get a new wet suit upon reaching that goal.
3) Never turn down an offer to surf it up with my son.
4) Get a little more confident so I don't shy from a paddle battle to get the waves.

surf on ..........................

Wrong board-wrong tide oh well, trust yer instincts is the lesson I will take home.

This morning I arrived about a half hour later than I should have.
T-Mar WAS breaking but...... fatties lookin to break then shrinking until a little too close on the inside for a 10 ft. + board.
.
"TerraMirage" or "TerraMush" as some have said. I knew I should have brought my cali-classic Chris Slick with a trifin set up.....damn.!

Well I did my best (probably) and really got about 5 decent rides in 2 hours. I just cant take off REAL LATE on that board. The tide came up fast and killed it.

still stoked, as always, and thankful to the powers that be for giving this gift to my son and I.
Maybe I'll go back out now with a different board and a DIFFERENT TIDE.
Surf on, and on, and on.

Saturday I came, I saw, I went, IT was GOOD? ? ? !

Friday looked awful on the surfline Tamarack Cam ( just up the road from where I generally surf ). Saturdays cam 615am, showed a little better. At 430am Saturday I finished watching this Machado interview www.surfline.com/video/going_off/ video,
so I went EXPECTING CRAP up front. Maybe some victory at sea, which I enjoyed last winter at times. 0,o
7am Saturday I paddle out through sorta big NNW wind swell. A four or five tier,
( whitewater steps ) paddle out with a strong south parallel pull. My first semi winter like swell TEST. Waves were about shoulder/head ht. on the takeoff peaks, maybe 3-5 seconds apart on the sets and those in between. Warm water still.
After getting outside, I sat catching my breath, then turned on one, had a late great drop and an adrenaline pumping right. Because I thought it was gonna be crap so I let my wife a note saying I would be home by 830. Well stayed in til 10 am, had a few really great rides
I always have a good-great time "going", close to 200 times since Jan.
Glad I went......
As I write this on Sunday Am at 5 am Im goin again EXPECTING CRAP.

surf on

fire it up

Finally..............................W a V e S

Last night I went out, reluctantly just to paddle, as I always do when there are no waves and
B O I N G...... the reef was jackin up on THE O U T S I D E, HEAD HIGH, outside sets.
Did I say O U T S I D E S E T S......yep I did. big fat, breaking outside with lotsa shoulder and push.

All this in the middle of a 5.5ft high tide......

For a period of 45 min. we were all ( only 5 peeps out) hootin,hollerin, grinnin, SURFIN.

Bring it on.......
Surf on..................

O~B~S~E~S~S~E~D ?

Am I OBSESSED ?

obsession (countable and uncountable; plural obsessions)

1. a compulsive or irrational preoccupation
2. an unhealthy fixation

Oh, maybe so, doesn't really matter.
I've had 147 sessions since Jan 07, 50 of those were with my son, Jason.

The last few weeks have been interesting, A mix of small and frustrating, big and fun, lotsa smooth warm glass, no wet suits ANYMORE for a long time,(the no wetsuit thing is huge for me and my son)

2 nights back Jason and I had a great evening session in trunks, more the next day, and more again. His board rash was so bad he couldn't go this morning. I have been getting compliments now on my turns,cutbacks and other moves........VERY GRATIFYING ! ! !

Not that I HAVE to have that to surf, but it fuels my fire for sure. Instills confidence to move forward with the skills.

I am so looking forward to about 4 months of trunks and hopefully a few B i g swells.

Surfing leads me to HOPE.

I will go tommorow before work...thats in @ 5AM and ot at 6:15

surf on all of you, surf on.

THAT was cool !

Nice PMer tonight ! Kinda some texture but...
Trunks
Nice DROPS
Really warm( yes, actually WARM ) waters.
Got 2 rights at the TM reef that were, well G O O D.
Steep and long enough to do some long board dancing.
Everyone catching some, every one laughing.
O yes, and surfin it up with Jason, my son, is always good. Especially when he compliments me on the gnarly drops and stuff.

Summer, summer,
S U M M E R

surf on.....

People are killing our friends, murdering them.

http://www.10news.com/news/13512308/detail.html#
Isn't this just a shinning example of how wonderful the human race is.
Shooting Dolphins in the head.
I hope I have the good fortune to run into those folks.
Please let me happen upon them knowingly.

The Way we like IT

Tonight was fun. 5-8pm
TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS
Warm and glassy
Clear and looking at the reef under the board, watching the fish as I glide.
Effortless paddles and long smooth glides.
Pumping a 10 footer up and down and up and down. Cutbacks, and roundhouse's
Blue green water.
Occasional shoulder+ pits, and shoulders to dance on.
Good friends and good vibes.
Sun, sun, sun.
Stoke, stoke, stoke.

Surf on and on and on and on.

The locals are back

Photos courtesy of Ted, thats TerraMar Ted, a surf bro.

Are you a "Tube Dodger"? He's NOT

Find yourelf dodging the occasional tube? I certainly hope not !! But if you do...
Watch and enjoy.... by clicking the link below

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player_640.cfm?id=5863

Remember Big Wednesday "05" ?

This is a series of great photos from So Cal. on that wonderful, wonderful day.
Scroll through them all and check the comments
Really priceless memories and laughs. Enjoy !!
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves/SMHbigsurf250296x005

Saturday 5/19/07 Thanks Doc

Went out this morning to keep my arms and spirit in shape, just to spend some time in the water.
I am used to going out 4 to 6times a week now,
2-weekend DP's, and the rest after work sessions.
Last time out was Monday. S u r p r i s e ! ! !
This morning I expected glass, fog, semi cold red tide water, and ZERO waves. I showed later than usual and found lots of the regulars standing on the cliff. I deliberately put my wetsuit on at home so I wouldn't back out of going in for lack of waves. I parked and ran to the water without looking at the conditions.
Well it was small, but there were waves. I probably stood 15-20 times in my 2 hours and 6-8 of those were full and satisfying rides. JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED !!
Going out again tomorrow and really looking forward to the next predicted SSW
and a loooooong
5 day weekend starting this Thursday
surf on....

S u r p r i s e ! ! !

Wow...I know I didn't expect to see any real waves today, but.....SURPRISE

0630 am glassy,gray,cooler,no winds, peaks, some shoulders, nice drops, few people.

Surfed with Chuck today( below, in the wet suit) which is always a treat. Man that guy can hunt down the hot spots @ Terra mar. Chuck is always funny, fun to hang with, and a good surfer. I always learn when I watch him.
Good day today. Yesterday was a paddle out for a fallen surfer who passed on from a type of lymphoma @ 42 years old........

Surf hard, well, and often. Do something fun each day.
Surf on....

Took it All off

Monday night the suit came off in the last 45 min.
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
Cool Rides
Ted ( lives in a line-up house ) cranked up the beach boy tunes,
we sang the Sun to sleep.
Tuesday night, surfing Son Jason and I, in @ 4pm ish
trunks only ! ! ! !
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
some GOOD WAVES and SWEET RIDES
Good VIBES
GREAT TIMES....... SUMMER IS SO CLOSE NOW



surf on.......suit off.......

I WANT TO TAKE OFF MY SUIT

Today SUNDAY was almost summer like. ( took this shot @ Wind N' Sea today)

Medium, semi off shore winds slapping spray in the face. Blowing my SON and I south. Some pretty good waves coming Thur @ T-Mar.
Jason got a few goodies, so did I, but also got 2 late drops and consequent kook bottom turns, which I did recover from nicely and actually squeezed out pretty fair rides ( improving :) )

It's always GREAT to SURF WITH MY SON.

I went in without boots ( my feet always get cold ).
Boots off was good.....
Now I want the damn suit off...it gets so old. It's so constrictive, restrictive, and de-sensitizing.
Its like a full body condom.........

I Saw Wind and Sea today......what a beautiful beach and wave.

I'm going to take a surf trip there before summer break and the mega crowds that
I'm sure must be there...maybe a mid-weeker.

Gonna make the cover of ALMOST magazine

felt like this dude today.... kinda.
(pic. I took on "big wed" 2005 TerraMar/Igors reef)

Got out there @ 6:15am Got a few, nice drops, some shoulders, almost tubed, then as soon as the "apostles" lined up on the cliff, sipping java and taking it in, I turned to mush. Almost made some hell-drops, almost did a great roundhouse, almost made a stellar left turn, a l m o s t.
I did however complete a perfect and spectacular over the nose pearl......

Still it was great to get out, man, it seems if I don't get at least 3-4 sessions per week( 7 day period)
I GET VERY VERY FUNKY ! !

Soooooooo it was good.
thinking Sunday will be considerably better weather, form, and speed.

surf on....

Just keep it coming

Click pic' for a view of some glassy ass GLASS from Fridays morning session !

After last nights sesh, I was stoked I had arranged for Friday off about 3 days back.
Damn I'm getting better at calling the days off....
In @ 7am out @ 1130am.
Glass..not crowded..some big fat stuff AGAIN
Seems best in the high tide....albeit a bit mushy, enough size to crank it up though.

3 different people described 3 separate waves I rode as "waves-of-the-day !! L O L
That felt good ! ! ! !

Did get a hundred yarder....face the whole way, chesty,
overhead on the peak !

It was one of those mornings.................woooooooo hooooooooo

God its good to be alive and so stoked......
it's soooo good.
Thanks
Thanks for this precious, precious gift.

surf on....

Well... today was just kinda EPIC ! ! ! ! !

HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING IT OUT TOMORROW
POSSIBLY PLAYING A LITTLE HOOKIE
My own, little, home break finally wakes up with
a perfect swell direction, depth, and interval.
5-6 tiered, long, far, BURNING paddle out..the kind where you might never get out..

BIG FAT JAAAAACKING CRUMBLING JAAAAAAACKING STEEP BEAUTIFUL
IN SETS OF 5 AND MORE BREAKING WAY FAR OUT THEN FARTHER STILL

EXHAUSTING PADDLE OUTS/BACKS AND COMPLETELY SATISFYING
COMPLETELY
A W E S O M E ! !

surf on...and on and on and on and......

Tues PM is all GOOD..mostly

Tuesday's session was what I've been waiting for for what seems to be a long time.
Warm, glassy, fat west swell.
Made a mad dash from work at 330 pm, arranged to meet my son and was surprised to see almost perfect conditions.
First 3 were great and pretty long. Then things slowed a bit with occasional rides for all. Some of those were great rides. My son had a couple good ones then ended up slicing a flap of skin off his hand with the fin. Went in and bandaged him up. Went back out til 730 pm.
During the last hour I stripped the wet sit off down to the waist so I could feel the water on my arms and torso. SWEET
I CANT WAIT TO GET OUTTA THAT DAMN SUIT...... I WANT TO TRUNK IT SOOOO BAD !!!!

anywho.....it was good. Looking forward to the rest of the week and hopefully this Friday off.....

surf on

It's heeeeeeeeeere

Finally some good size.
Tuesday PM. in @ 4pm, out @ 730pm
Warmer water presumably from the SOUTH
A little chop but sunny and a little breeze. A big, fat swell.
Deep pits on some, sections, clean-up walls, lotsa push.
Pretty good glass off
2 kook-outs,
3 wicked drops,
5 nice steep, long rides,
2 c l o s e calls with wiped out boards
1 saved the dude. staring at me from the inside 5 yards in front of me as I stood atop a bomb
Burning paddle out and paddle back outs.
Lotsa fun, cheers, laughs, and W H O A 's
Finally some good size.
This pic. is not from today,
but one of my Favorite Pics of my son Jason

Da Boards

The Clear board is a 9'6" Chris Slick "California classic" not alot of rocker, fast, likes the bigger faster stuff
The Yellow and blue ( in the middle) is a 10'3" Slick NR3.......Killer in the big fat swells and small stuff too. It's kinda magical.
The White and blue is a 9"3" Slick NR3, thinner, whippy, nose rider and DANCER.... love it.
Surf on

Victory at sea

Today was wet and wild.
Tough,tough paddle out..... nobody else was in the water. 3 way cross ups, deep pits in the peaks, big bumps on the shoulders,walls, die-outs ,waves about 3-5 seconds apart. Every once in awhile it was like all the "cross-ups" came together into one big bomber and yeehaw !! My total #$*&@ day at work vanished from my mind in about 3 seconds. The concentration was refreshing and VERY necessary. Had some great rides and got my ass kicked too ..... perfect!

Yep.....likin' the Victory at Sea stuff.... makes a man outta ya !

Surf on

Expected a joke,but got stoke stoke S T O K E

AFTER the last Sunday session on my Beautiful 10'3" Chris Slick Noseider I saw the crack in the deck......lotsa water comin out.....thats goin to the shop for a good 2-3 weeks
BUMMER

TODAY I took my other Slick, (I have 3 heehee), a California Classic, which is a hybrid of a retro/modern 9 foot board, 2+1 ,not alot of rocker, and drove to the spot about 4 pm expecting windy,cold,SMALL chop and slop.

AS I pulled up I spied the only 2 surfers out there, 2 of my buds. Funny thing is they were way far out there ......

SUITED up and started the paddle out only to see BIG,FAST Walls on the outside and Pat and Dave scratching over them......

MADE it out( tough paddle out) and turned on the first wave.....steep drop, fast, hard, bottom turn and flew out the top in a swan dive over the back.

NEXT one was BIG FAST and LOOOOONG...........wooooooooooo eeeeeeeeeee
Stayed out through rain,rainbows, wind, chop,clearing skies, calm winds, glass off, spectacular sunset, and about 8 really great waves and rides. Doing things I have not done before. In tune and rockin'.


GOD I LOVE DAYS LIKE THIS, I just love 'em

Surf ON

sweetness

Today was one of those days that go down as sweet.
My son Jason ( shown above on Big Wednesday 12/21/05 looking over TerraMar)
and I (below with my winter beard, looking over Del Mar)


started at the beach break area and quickly saw the reef was breaking better. So we decided to make the 100 yard paddle over. This was cool as it was super glass and windless.
made it over and about 5-8 of the "regulars" were catching some nice peaky waves.
"Bout 70% of the regulars are pretty good surfers( mostly longboards) and bout 25% are V E R Y G O O D surfers. It can be a little intimidating and if your not "on it" you're not gonna get much.
My son was on our biggest board and he was getting alot. I was on a less familiar shorter board and was hanging south about 10-15 yards and waiting for the right that I new would show, based on the swell. I started getting my share until I was discovered and a little crowd formed around me.
No worries, Jason and I spent 2 hours surfing it up in some really nice conditions.
It's hard to describe how "complete" I feel when my son and I share a great surfing session like that together......it's just sublime and the after glow and stoke is such a gift..

surf on





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